P700 work lights and wiring help - Honda Pioneer Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 05-28-2019, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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P700 work lights and wiring help

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A year ago I bought a used 2015 Pioneer 700 for use around our property (plowing, landscape work). I知 looking to add some rear work lights soon and front work lights in the near future. I致e googled a bunch and lurked around this forum reading up on adding accessories.

I知 new to wiring and, while I think I have it figured out at times, at others things feel twisted around in my head. I知 interested in any assistance members here can give me on my plans.

My first question is whether I want to use THIS Honda sub harness (p7002-08Z01-HL3-600) or THIS harness (500-08Z08-HL5-A00) which has mixed confirmation on working with a P700.

In the future I would like to add front light(s), but for now want to get 2 rear light pods hooked up to illuminate the bed. I am leaning toward THIS or THIS and wiring them with THIS dual harness with a switch and relay.

I would like to run the lighting control through a rocker panel and have been looking at THIS one and would install it in place of the warning plague on the dash. It will give me a rocker switch each for the Rear and future Front lighting as well as leaving me 1 spare for any future addition.

My inexperience comes in play with hooking all this up. Looking at the attached wiring diagram for the dual harness it seems relatively straight forward, but would I use the Honda sub harness instead of running direct to the battery? And if so, which wires on the harness? I don稚 mind having the lights on only the keyed power the harness provides. Would the voltmeter on the rocker panel need to be wired directly to the battery for correct reading?

And were would I pull power from for future front lights? One of the other branches of the Honda sub harness? Would I be drawing too many amps at any point?

Obviously I知 pretty green here and just trying to sort the process out in my head. Anyone see incompatibility or weakness in my thinking?

Appreciate any help. In the meantime, I値l continue to web search and browse this forum.
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Thanks.

Matt

Last edited by Matthew Connors; 05-28-2019 at 01:16 PM.
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post #2 of 9 Old 05-31-2019, 03:53 PM
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Matt,

First, you will need this Accessory Sub Harness 08Z02-HL3-A00 Accessory Sub Harness*| Honda Powersports. It plugs in-line with your cigarette lighter. You mention plowing so I take it you have a winch. Hoping the winch module is under the hood, I would pull battery power from it and the subharness would give you key-on power or you could ignore the harness and take key-on power and battery power from the winch module. Now if you dont have the winch installed, use harness for key-on power and run a power wire from battery.

I would then connect a 30 or 40 amp relay and use that to power the lights. Reason for relay is it draws little power compared to lots of accessories. I wired in a fuse block from relay for each of my accessories.

One trick with using the harness is the "special" type of connectors Honda uses. I dont remember where I found them online but I bought around 50 male and 50 female ends and the special crimping too for them. It saved a bunch of time.

I have a 2014 700-4 with an led dome light, an led light bar across the top, 2 rigid spot lights on the A-pillar, 2 rigid flood lights shining down on the bed, power steering, and a heater all wired to the fuse block/relay. I also installed a Honda Marine Voltmeter (looks factory) to the other wire on the subharness just to be safe and able to monitor battery voltage.

I'm getting ready to install a 2nd battery and isolator for the accessories just in case I have to use the winch more than I want to while hunting, I can still start the engine.

Let me know if you need some photos of the relay/fuse block, etc. If you google relay wiring diagram its pretty straight forward on how that's wired.
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post #3 of 9 Old 05-31-2019, 09:10 PM
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Here is what my switch panel looks like.
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post #4 of 9 Old 06-01-2019, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice @norcal700-4. Bear with me, but I think I follow your thoughts.

My winch contractor is not under the hood, but immediately above the winch on the frame - close enough to pull constant power from I think.

Also, I bit the bullet and bought the harness below - technically for P500 series but I seem to have the red port for it under the hood of my P700.

For the rocker panel I posted I'd like the voltmeter and usb outlet to have constant power. Is the winch contractor what you are suggestion I pull my constant power from for those? The lights I'd be ok with key-on power and is that what you are saying to get the power from the sub-harness for? So outlet charger and voltmeter constant power from the winch contractor and keyed on power from the sub harness.

I'm still feeling a bit lost on what ties in where to get the whole system working, but I'll look closer at a relay wiring diagrams. When you have time, I would be interested in seeing some photos of your relay/fuse block set up as well. Might clarify and give me some ideas.

Thanks again. Looking for this to be a fun project, but trying to avoid any serious electrical damage from ignorance!
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Thanks.

Matt

Last edited by Matthew Connors; 06-01-2019 at 05:28 PM.
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post #5 of 9 Old 06-01-2019, 06:28 PM
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So the harness you purchased has a place to plug in under the hood for switched power?

You would want your voltmeter to be on switched power and not constant power because it will draw power the entire time the rig is off. I wired my voltmeter on a stand-alone switched power (from 2nd wire on subharness) so it was providing actual voltage and not showing reduced voltage if it were wired after the accessories. You could wire USB charger to constant power provided you dont leave things plugged into it when engine is off.

Here is a wiring diagram for the relay. The wire heading to light from relay would go to switch and then from switch to light. Or you could run switched power to the switch and then from switch to relay as the ignition wire/trigger.

I'll work on getting some pictures of the fuse block and relay. The back of the switch panel is covered by the heater.
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post #6 of 9 Old 06-01-2019, 06:54 PM
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Here is my fuse block/relay.

Orange wire coming in from top right is switched power connected to subharness. This changes to white wire (one goes to relay and one goes to power steering).

Red wire coming in from bottom is constant power coming from winch controller. This changes to yellow and goes to relay.

Blue wire powers fuse block when key is on.

Red wires leaving right side of fuse block head to switch panel for each accessory. Red wires on left side of fuse block go to heater and heater control valve.

Hard to see but there is a black ground wire to relay too. I ran that to winch controller.
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post #7 of 9 Old 06-01-2019, 06:56 PM
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As you can see, I dont have much extra room under the hood.
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post #8 of 9 Old 06-01-2019, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norcal700-4 View Post
As you can see, I dont have much extra room under the hood.
Yeah. That heater is hogging a lot of space.

Thanks for the images. Clarified things a lot for me. Seems pretty straight forward overall.

If I were to use the dual light wiring harness in the image attached with a built in fuse and relay would it have the same end results as your setup? Could I feed the hot line with the fuse off the sub harness with switch power? I'd also remove the single trigger on the switch line and wire it to my rocker panel.

In the future I'd wire a single (or dual) front light with a similar wire harness and another branch of the sub harness.


The second image is the red connector for the harness I bought. It's just beyond the fuse box under the hood of my 2015.

I'm going to start gathering supplies, things are making sense to me know mostly. If that dual light harness will work I'll throw that in the cart as well.

Thanks again for the help. Appreciate your time spent.
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Thanks.

Matt
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post #9 of 9 Old 06-01-2019, 08:59 PM
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I couldnt see a clear picture of the harness but I think you could save some time and money if you just got a 30 (or 40) amp relay, an in-line fuse holder and fuse and some wire. Wire the relay in and place the fuse after the relay and on the downstream side of the fuse you could run 2 wires to power two switches. This would allow for the future front lights too. Depending on where you mount the rocker panel, you might want to run a wire out to under the hood since it could be difficult to get it connected to the backside of the switch once the panel is installed.

I didnt use the harness that came with the light bar. I just wired it up as described above. The Rigid spot lights and flood lights that I installed only draw 2 to 3 amps.

The switched power going to the relay is just the trigger to flip the switch. The power comes from the hot wire and leaves through the wire to the fuse block, rocker switch, etc. It's like a light switch. You flip it but dont provide the power for the lights.
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