Just a note: If you had the front jacked up during the change, you will need more than the 3.1 quarts. I think i got a little over 3.5.
But, the dipstick is always the final word.
But, the dipstick is always the final word.
700 Oil and filter change guide.
11
Honda Pioneer 700
Oil change: a Honda Pioneer supplemental. I know there are a lot of people on or around the forum that are new to SxS's. Toodeep and myself thought this write up and a little add on color pictured help guide to go with using your manual to change your own oil would be beneficial
Note* this is only to help aid in the directions on how to do the oil change that are found in your owners manual. Any contradiction contained in these instructions, should be disregarded. ^^Tools needed. A socket wrench. 10mm,12mm, and 17mm sockets. A funnel, torque wrench, paper towels or clean lint free rags, and an oil pan.^^
Parts needed. A new oil filter. Honda part # 15412-KEA-003 or equivalent aftermarket of your choice. I use a KN-111. You will also need 3.1 quarts of Honda GN4 4 stroke 10w-30, or another oil that meets Honda specifications. I use a Mobile 1 Racing 4T 10W-40.
Warm you engine up for a few minutes. This will allow the old nasty oil to flow out of the motor more freely. If you already live someplace hotter than a super models butt, then you might not even need more than a minute or two.
Park it on a flat spot. Preferably some place you won't mind laying on the ground.
Set your parking brake and take the keys out. You don't want it accidentally driving away with no oil in it and you stuck under it.
Take your front seat out and toss it in the bed.
Fold back the rubber engine access flaps that are under the seat.
Your dipstick is on the drivers side. Unscrew it and remove the stick. Wipe it off with a clean paper towel or rag. Then I like to wipe it with my fingers before checking the oil, to make sure there isn't any lint on the stick. You want to be between the two lines.
Leave the dipstick loose and loosen the filler cap. I like to do this to vent the oil draining, just like the vent on a gas can.
If you can't fit under the machine, I suggest you block up the front tires. I used a couple scraps of 2x10. Blocking the front up will also aid in more oil draining out of the drain plug. Slide under to access the maintenance lid. Seen here.
Remove the 4 bolts that secure the lid. A ratchet with a 10mm socket works great. After the bolts are removed and safely set aside. Slide the lid to the side. *DO NOT attempt to take the lid out of the maintenance hole. * just slide it out of the way.
You now have access to the oil drain plug. It is 17mm. Loosen the drain plug and remove it with your oil pan in position to catch the oil.
While the oil drains.
Get up and grab a rag or paper towel to clean off the drain plug you brought with you. Inspect the rubber seal and washer on the plug. If they are good to go, take a little fresh oil and coat the plug.
When the oil has finished draining. Get back under the Pioneer. Insert the drain plug and turn it in by hand as far as you can. You can then tighten it to the specified torque of .....18 lbf-ft.......
Slide the maintenance lid back into its proper position and reinstall the bolts. Tighten them to the specified torque of...9 lbf-ft....
Go to the passenger side door with your oil pan in hand. Slide it directly under the Pioneer about where a passengers inboard leg would be. In that sides maintenance hatch you will find the internal oil filter cover. Loosen that 12mm bolt. note there is some residual oil inside the filter and cover. It might be a good time to check that oil pan placement.
After the oil filter bolt is loose, the entire filter unit should slide out.WARNING! When removing the old filter from the filter bolt, DO NOT discard the filter before making sure you have the flat washer that is adhered to it 99% of the time.
With the old filter removed,
it is time to slide the new filter on the assembly. Slide it back into the side of the motor.
Note. There is no front and back to the filter. Either way you slid it on is fine. hand tighten the filter bolt! then torque to .....13 lbf-ft........
Now that the drain plug and oil filter cover are both installed and tightened, it's time to add the oil. 3.1 quarts (3qts 3.2oz). ***WARNING! Add oil slowly!! I mean slower than you think is humanly possible. I am not joking, go slow, or you will be spilling it.
Screw in your dipstick and tighten your oil cap. Make sure all of your tools, rags, towels, and anything else is clear of the motor. Take your keys and start the Pioneer. Let it run for about 30-60 seconds to circulate your oil.
Shut the engine off and wait a few minutes (put away your tools and oil pan). Go back and check your oil. If it is low add some more until your are in the operating range between the lines.
Fold your rubber access panels back to their closed position and secure them.
Replace your seat and enjoy your Pioneer.
Oil change: a Honda Pioneer supplemental. I know there are a lot of people on or around the forum that are new to SxS's. Toodeep and myself thought this write up and a little add on color pictured help guide to go with using your manual to change your own oil would be beneficial
Note* this is only to help aid in the directions on how to do the oil change that are found in your owners manual. Any contradiction contained in these instructions, should be disregarded. ^^Tools needed. A socket wrench. 10mm,12mm, and 17mm sockets. A funnel, torque wrench, paper towels or clean lint free rags, and an oil pan.^^
Parts needed. A new oil filter. Honda part # 15412-KEA-003 or equivalent aftermarket of your choice. I use a KN-111. You will also need 3.1 quarts of Honda GN4 4 stroke 10w-30, or another oil that meets Honda specifications. I use a Mobile 1 Racing 4T 10W-40.
Warm you engine up for a few minutes. This will allow the old nasty oil to flow out of the motor more freely. If you already live someplace hotter than a super models butt, then you might not even need more than a minute or two.
Park it on a flat spot. Preferably some place you won't mind laying on the ground.
Set your parking brake and take the keys out. You don't want it accidentally driving away with no oil in it and you stuck under it.
Take your front seat out and toss it in the bed.
Fold back the rubber engine access flaps that are under the seat.
Your dipstick is on the drivers side. Unscrew it and remove the stick. Wipe it off with a clean paper towel or rag. Then I like to wipe it with my fingers before checking the oil, to make sure there isn't any lint on the stick. You want to be between the two lines.
Leave the dipstick loose and loosen the filler cap. I like to do this to vent the oil draining, just like the vent on a gas can.
If you can't fit under the machine, I suggest you block up the front tires. I used a couple scraps of 2x10. Blocking the front up will also aid in more oil draining out of the drain plug. Slide under to access the maintenance lid. Seen here.
Remove the 4 bolts that secure the lid. A ratchet with a 10mm socket works great. After the bolts are removed and safely set aside. Slide the lid to the side. *DO NOT attempt to take the lid out of the maintenance hole. * just slide it out of the way.
You now have access to the oil drain plug. It is 17mm. Loosen the drain plug and remove it with your oil pan in position to catch the oil.
While the oil drains.
Get up and grab a rag or paper towel to clean off the drain plug you brought with you. Inspect the rubber seal and washer on the plug. If they are good to go, take a little fresh oil and coat the plug.
When the oil has finished draining. Get back under the Pioneer. Insert the drain plug and turn it in by hand as far as you can. You can then tighten it to the specified torque of .....18 lbf-ft.......
Slide the maintenance lid back into its proper position and reinstall the bolts. Tighten them to the specified torque of...9 lbf-ft....
Go to the passenger side door with your oil pan in hand. Slide it directly under the Pioneer about where a passengers inboard leg would be. In that sides maintenance hatch you will find the internal oil filter cover. Loosen that 12mm bolt. note there is some residual oil inside the filter and cover. It might be a good time to check that oil pan placement.
After the oil filter bolt is loose, the entire filter unit should slide out.WARNING! When removing the old filter from the filter bolt, DO NOT discard the filter before making sure you have the flat washer that is adhered to it 99% of the time.
With the old filter removed,
it is time to slide the new filter on the assembly. Slide it back into the side of the motor.
Note. There is no front and back to the filter. Either way you slid it on is fine. hand tighten the filter bolt! then torque to .....13 lbf-ft........
Now that the drain plug and oil filter cover are both installed and tightened, it's time to add the oil. 3.1 quarts (3qts 3.2oz). ***WARNING! Add oil slowly!! I mean slower than you think is humanly possible. I am not joking, go slow, or you will be spilling it.
Screw in your dipstick and tighten your oil cap. Make sure all of your tools, rags, towels, and anything else is clear of the motor. Take your keys and start the Pioneer. Let it run for about 30-60 seconds to circulate your oil.
Shut the engine off and wait a few minutes (put away your tools and oil pan). Go back and check your oil. If it is low add some more until your are in the operating range between the lines.
Fold your rubber access panels back to their closed position and secure them.
Replace your seat and enjoy your Pioneer.
1 - 20 of 62 Posts
8
I personally think Honda gives too much torque on the drain bolt. Just snug (10-12 ft/lbs) is all it takes if the washer is in good condition.
I have put up to 4 qts in these motors (Rincon/Big Red/Pioneer). I run them overfilled some also. If climbing long steep hills running them overfilled is a good idea.
If you don't own a funnel I highly recommend getting one. It makes it so much easier adding oil.
Don't forget to clean your air filter and check the final drive levels (should be at the bottom of the check hole). After cleaning the air filter make sure to oil it. There are a lot of air filter oils out there, I prefer the Klotz. The also make a cleaner but dish soap and water will work. I use parts cleaning solvent to clean them.
If the oil filter cover is stuck remove the bolt about half way and wiggle it up/down and it will break the cover loose from the case.
Last thing, don't forget to reset the service reminder. With the key off push and hold the mode button on the meter. Turn the key on while still holding the button and you should see the reminder (wrench) go off. If you flip through the modes you will see it resets to 100 hours or 600 miles.
I have put up to 4 qts in these motors (Rincon/Big Red/Pioneer). I run them overfilled some also. If climbing long steep hills running them overfilled is a good idea.
If you don't own a funnel I highly recommend getting one. It makes it so much easier adding oil.
Don't forget to clean your air filter and check the final drive levels (should be at the bottom of the check hole). After cleaning the air filter make sure to oil it. There are a lot of air filter oils out there, I prefer the Klotz. The also make a cleaner but dish soap and water will work. I use parts cleaning solvent to clean them.
If the oil filter cover is stuck remove the bolt about half way and wiggle it up/down and it will break the cover loose from the case.
Last thing, don't forget to reset the service reminder. With the key off push and hold the mode button on the meter. Turn the key on while still holding the button and you should see the reminder (wrench) go off. If you flip through the modes you will see it resets to 100 hours or 600 miles.
Thanks Guys
It's all pretty basic stuff but it is still nice to get tips (like adding oil slowly) and seeing photos of where everything is located. I haven't needed to do mine yet but it should be soon.
Just a question Moose, did the oil go in slow because it was -100 deg where you are at in that Wisconsin place?
Ok, you can get back at me this summer when it's 110 deg at my desert place.. .......but oil does flow easily at that temp.
It's all pretty basic stuff but it is still nice to get tips (like adding oil slowly) and seeing photos of where everything is located. I haven't needed to do mine yet but it should be soon.
Just a question Moose, did the oil go in slow because it was -100 deg where you are at in that Wisconsin place?
Ok, you can get back at me this summer when it's 110 deg at my desert place.. .......but oil does flow easily at that temp.
Great DIY!
At least this way people won't have to worry about removing the wrong bolt or drain plug that would suck.
At least this way people won't have to worry about removing the wrong bolt or drain plug
that would suck.
Yeah just wait someone will screw it up and come in yelling HELP.Great DIY!
At least this way people won't have to worry about removing the wrong bolt or drain plug
I belong to a forum for my toyota tacoma.
I read a post once from someone yelling help.
Well they went to change their engine oil.
He removed the drain plug and out came a reddish fluid. About a quart or 2 came out before he put the plug back in. Mind you this was a new truck and this was the first time he ever changed oil and first for the truck.
So anyway the red fluid looked just like the coolant/radiator fluid toyota uses so......he put that fluid in his radiator.
So at this point he has just discovered the real engine oil drain plug and then realized the other drain plug was for the transmission and then he realized his stupidity at the fact he put all of that transmission fluid into the coolant system.
So at that point he came screaming on the forum at what to do and the poor guy got flamed endlessly.
So with that being said it is impossible to tell what stupidity someone WILL come up with someday. LOL
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