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700 Oil and filter change guide.

262042 Views 61 Replies 33 Participants Last post by  Dalton.j.crews
Honda Pioneer 700

Oil change: a Honda Pioneer supplemental. I know there are a lot of people on or around the forum that are new to SxS's. Toodeep and myself thought this write up and a little add on color pictured help guide to go with using your manual to change your own oil would be beneficial

Note* this is only to help aid in the directions on how to do the oil change that are found in your owners manual. Any contradiction contained in these instructions, should be disregarded. ^^Tools needed. A socket wrench. 10mm,12mm, and 17mm sockets. A funnel, torque wrench, paper towels or clean lint free rags, and an oil pan.^^

Parts needed. A new oil filter. Honda part # 15412-KEA-003 or equivalent aftermarket of your choice. I use a KN-111. You will also need 3.1 quarts of Honda GN4 4 stroke 10w-30, or another oil that meets Honda specifications. I use a Mobile 1 Racing 4T 10W-40.

Warm you engine up for a few minutes. This will allow the old nasty oil to flow out of the motor more freely. If you already live someplace hotter than a super models butt, then you might not even need more than a minute or two.

Park it on a flat spot. Preferably some place you won't mind laying on the ground.

Set your parking brake and take the keys out. You don't want it accidentally driving away with no oil in it and you stuck under it.

Take your front seat out and toss it in the bed.

Fold back the rubber engine access flaps that are under the seat.

Your dipstick is on the drivers side. Unscrew it and remove the stick. Wipe it off with a clean paper towel or rag. Then I like to wipe it with my fingers before checking the oil, to make sure there isn't any lint on the stick. You want to be between the two lines.

Leave the dipstick loose and loosen the filler cap. I like to do this to vent the oil draining, just like the vent on a gas can.

If you can't fit under the machine, I suggest you block up the front tires. I used a couple scraps of 2x10. Blocking the front up will also aid in more oil draining out of the drain plug. Slide under to access the maintenance lid. Seen here.

Remove the 4 bolts that secure the lid. A ratchet with a 10mm socket works great. After the bolts are removed and safely set aside. Slide the lid to the side. *DO NOT attempt to take the lid out of the maintenance hole. * just slide it out of the way.

You now have access to the oil drain plug. It is 17mm. Loosen the drain plug and remove it with your oil pan in position to catch the oil.

While the oil drains.

Get up and grab a rag or paper towel to clean off the drain plug you brought with you. Inspect the rubber seal and washer on the plug. If they are good to go, take a little fresh oil and coat the plug.

When the oil has finished draining. Get back under the Pioneer. Insert the drain plug and turn it in by hand as far as you can. You can then tighten it to the specified torque of .....18 lbf-ft.......

Slide the maintenance lid back into its proper position and reinstall the bolts. Tighten them to the specified torque of...9 lbf-ft....

Go to the passenger side door with your oil pan in hand. Slide it directly under the Pioneer about where a passengers inboard leg would be. In that sides maintenance hatch you will find the internal oil filter cover. Loosen that 12mm bolt. note there is some residual oil inside the filter and cover. It might be a good time to check that oil pan placement.

After the oil filter bolt is loose, the entire filter unit should slide out.WARNING! When removing the old filter from the filter bolt, DO NOT discard the filter before making sure you have the flat washer that is adhered to it 99% of the time.

With the old filter removed,

it is time to slide the new filter on the assembly. Slide it back into the side of the motor.

Note. There is no front and back to the filter. Either way you slid it on is fine. hand tighten the filter bolt! then torque to .....13 lbf-ft........

Now that the drain plug and oil filter cover are both installed and tightened, it's time to add the oil. 3.1 quarts (3qts 3.2oz). ***WARNING! Add oil slowly!! I mean slower than you think is humanly possible. I am not joking, go slow, or you will be spilling it.

Screw in your dipstick and tighten your oil cap. Make sure all of your tools, rags, towels, and anything else is clear of the motor. Take your keys and start the Pioneer. Let it run for about 30-60 seconds to circulate your oil.

Shut the engine off and wait a few minutes (put away your tools and oil pan). Go back and check your oil. If it is low add some more until your are in the operating range between the lines.

Fold your rubber access panels back to their closed position and secure them.
Replace your seat and enjoy your Pioneer.
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Just a note: If you had the front jacked up during the change, you will need more than the 3.1 quarts. I think i got a little over 3.5.

But, the dipstick is always the final word.
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I personally think Honda gives too much torque on the drain bolt. Just snug (10-12 ft/lbs) is all it takes if the washer is in good condition.

I have put up to 4 qts in these motors (Rincon/Big Red/Pioneer). I run them overfilled some also. If climbing long steep hills running them overfilled is a good idea.

If you don't own a funnel I highly recommend getting one. It makes it so much easier adding oil.

Don't forget to clean your air filter and check the final drive levels (should be at the bottom of the check hole). After cleaning the air filter make sure to oil it. There are a lot of air filter oils out there, I prefer the Klotz. The also make a cleaner but dish soap and water will work. I use parts cleaning solvent to clean them.

If the oil filter cover is stuck remove the bolt about half way and wiggle it up/down and it will break the cover loose from the case.

Last thing, don't forget to reset the service reminder. With the key off push and hold the mode button on the meter. Turn the key on while still holding the button and you should see the reminder (wrench) go off. If you flip through the modes you will see it resets to 100 hours or 600 miles.

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Thanks Guys

It's all pretty basic stuff but it is still nice to get tips (like adding oil slowly) and seeing photos of where everything is located. I haven't needed to do mine yet but it should be soon.

Just a question Moose, did the oil go in slow because it was -100 deg where you are at in that Wisconsin place? :rolleyes: Ok, you can get back at me this summer when it's 110 deg at my desert place..:eek: .......but oil does flow easily at that temp.
I actually prepped my oil by setting it on top of my wood furnace for a few minutes.

My baby doesn't get fed cold oil. My baby is special. Lol!

We see temps around that range in the summer. I have no idea why I live some place that can be -50 to 120.... must be something wrong in my brain pan.
Great DIY!
At least this way people won't have to worry about removing the wrong bolt or drain plug :D that would suck.
Great DIY!
At least this way people won't have to worry about removing the wrong bolt or drain plug :D that would suck.
Yeah just wait someone will screw it up and come in yelling HELP.

I belong to a forum for my toyota tacoma.

I read a post once from someone yelling help.

Well they went to change their engine oil.

He removed the drain plug and out came a reddish fluid. About a quart or 2 came out before he put the plug back in. Mind you this was a new truck and this was the first time he ever changed oil and first for the truck.

So anyway the red fluid looked just like the coolant/radiator fluid toyota uses so......he put that fluid in his radiator.

So at this point he has just discovered the real engine oil drain plug and then realized the other drain plug was for the transmission and then he realized his stupidity at the fact he put all of that transmission fluid into the coolant system.

So at that point he came screaming on the forum at what to do and the poor guy got flamed endlessly.

So with that being said it is impossible to tell what stupidity someone WILL come up with someday. LOL
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Did Honda improve to oil fill? My Rincon has the same motor and it takes 30 minutes to put in 3 quarts. No matter what temperature it is.
Not really, it's a longer tube than what is on the Rincon. If you use a funnel gravity takes it right in though.
Did Honda improve to oil fill? My Rincon has the same motor and it takes 30 minutes to put in 3 quarts. No matter what temperature it is.
I was lucky that I brought my tax forms with me when I changed my oil. Had them completed by the time it was full......
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I need to do my taxes too. Guess it is time for an oil change. LMAO
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Is the Rincon the same oil filter?

I have read that the Pioneer has the same basic engine as the 650 Honda Fourtrax Rincon. If so does anyone know if the oil filter is the same as what is used on a Rincon? Moreover what year (or engine size) Rincon would interchange?

I have a local wholesale outlet for motorcycle oil filters, and the Fourtrax Rincon's are listed in their catalog but not the Pioneer.
I used the same filter as a TRX680
Qualt, the Pioneer uses a KN 111 oil filter. You can go to their sight and enter the info for the one you want to cross reference and see if it comes up the same.

They actually have the Pioneer listed now, so it isn't off label use anymore.

K&N Performance Air Filters, Air Intakes, & Oil Filters
Thanks Moose. The filter brand is not a K&N but the part number is almost the same HF 111. Moreover, it does show the TRX680 (and several other models) as using the same filter.
the rincon650 , rincon680 and the pioneer all use the same filter which is 15412-KEA-003 (factory honda eliment #)
Plus the Bigred, Rubicon and 400 Rancher use that filter. It's even the same as a lot of the old motorcycles (different part numbers because they come with orings).
i knew about the big red and rubi but didn't know it fit the 400 rancher .....gota love honda parts
Moose, is the Mobil 1 oil you use different than off the shelf 10w-40???
Moose, is the Mobil 1 oil you use different than off the shelf 10w-40???
Yes sir. Mobil 1 4T is a motorcycle oil, not a car oil. Car and ATV, bike, utv oils are very similar, but their differences have to do with friction modifiers. You might end up with your tranny slipping if you put car oil in the Pioneer.

Check your owners manual. Page 114 for what is required by Honda specs. I'd stay with an oil that meets all of those requirements at least until your warranty is up.
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