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Rellison110 did an outstanding job of tracking down the components to make (non OEM) plug n play in your accessory fuse box and switch panel.

I am reposting his info here, and I would like for it to be considered for "sticky" worthiness.

Thanks again Rellison110 for your efforts.

Using Hondas Accessory Fuse Box for non Honda Accessories

by rellison110 » Sat Dec 28, 2013 1:00 pm
For those of you that either have or plan to install Hondas accessory switch panel and fuse box, there is an issue that has frustrated me to no end. The switches and plug in connectors are vendor are and proprietary to Honda. Fortunately for any Pioneer owners wanting to install this, I have located and now installed non Honda items using their accessory fuse box and switch panel.

The connectors and associated pins that go inside the connector are available from Mouser Electronics.com and the part numbers are as follows:

Two pin is 538-50-84-1020
Three pin is 538-50-84-1030
Four pin is 538-50-84-1040
The pins is 538-02-08-1002

I have only used the two pin so far, as that was all I need so far. I soldered my connectors.

I purchased switches from OTRATTW.com and they are Carling Tecnologies V series. I chose the Contura two which have two illumination functions. They illuminate with a bar at the bottom of the switch when the head lights are on, and then the designated symbol on the switch lights up when the accessory is in use.

You will need to modify the Honda connectors that plug into the switch panel per Carlings switch wiring diagram. I wired directly into the head light switch wire for the lower illumination function. It is a black and white wire that is under the hood, by the wheel well on the drivers side, and is a two pin connector that if you pull it apart, will disconnect power to the head lights, that will tell you that you have the right wire.
 

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What does the line "The pins is 538-02-08-1002" signify?

The panel/harness looks sharp. I think (if I buy brand new) it'll be the only accessory I purchase (at first).....IF I knew I could wire everything up to it.

Why in the world would they not provide the switches with the panel/harness? Seems absurd, to me.
 

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I'm going to say "the pins" are the male terminals that go into the connector that you hook your wires to.
 

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Evidently I got my wires crossed when buying these switch parts. I have three parts ordered that really won't work for me. Somehow my base does not work with my interchangeable rocker (won't snap on ???)……and the pin connector does not fit the switch base…..so this switch set up is not going to fly for me.

No big deal….minor switch set back. :) It just may get too techy if you rush into getting these parts from the list and don't have a little electrical know-how…..as I evidently don't. ;)

I looked at the Carling Tech site…..and it appears that all rocker switches of this type conform to an industry standard .83" x 1.45" mounting hole. I'm going to my auto parts store to see if I can find a stock switch.
 

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Foggy if you have a WW Grainger near by you can get them there.
 

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Actually, after close inspection, I got a defective rocker switch. :rolleyes: This caused ALLOT of confusion, as I did not understand how it could assemble. (it could not - as it was sent to me.) After dorking around with it all afternoon…..I just finished fixing it and will post a pic later.

I want to finish this thing up yet this afternoon…..if I can. Will post more tonight.
 

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OK….so here is the story on the two-part rocker switch. From OTRATTW I ordered PN V1D1S00B-000000-000 V-series rocker switch body, and VVPZC42-5WL switch "rocker" (showing the LED Windshield Lights on the face).

The second part would not "snap-fit" to the 1st part…..as there were no holes in the snap-fit to catch the "ears" on the first part. After doing a search for such a switch around town…..it became evident I would not get such a switch and I did not want to go thru the hassle of returning one and waiting. So……I carefully marked where the hole centers belong…..and using my dremel tool I drilled holes thru the rocker body to the needed locations on either side.

Viola!! I got a switch that accepts the rocker. :D Not sure if I will put some dumbo over the holes to clean it up…..or write and get a replacement…..but at least (after two hours of dinging around) I got a switch that operates properly.

Then, after getting all things wired up and ready for the two-pin body (from Mouser Electronics)……I find that I do not have the proper pins to fit onto the female receiver. Bumber. :eek: The normal pin connectors I have will not fit properly. I hope Radio Shack has the needed pins…..or that I can find a part number or further pin size identification from somebody here.

I'm not much of an electrical guy so this has been a good excersise in my patience and learning. If it wasn't cold today…..I'd chuck the project. ;)
 

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Oops.. Here is my picture of the hole-drilling event. There was no "getting at" the hole from the "inside"…..where the hole was needed. THe molding company must have forgotten the inserts or the tool broke…..or something?? :confused:
 

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What does the line "The pins is 538-02-08-1002" signify?

The panel/harness looks sharp. I think (if I buy brand new) it'll be the only accessory I purchase (at first).....IF I knew I could wire everything up to it.

Why in the world would they not provide the switches with the panel/harness? Seems absurd, to me.
Yep…..this may be my issue…..as the "pins" I'm trying to connect are smaller than normal…..and the bullet pins I have will not fit. (too big)

This project may not be for everybody….as these parts are quite dedicated….and any miss-understanding is hard to remedy locally. If your an electronics / electrical wiz….it's likely no big deal. But…..for me, it's lots of time spent putzing.

I suppose I'm what you would call "old school". Still, I build old street rods from the ground up in my youth (built a nice 32 ford back in the 60's)….but times have changed.

I wish Honda would have included the switches with the wiring kit. Still….without the bullet connectors that fit into the accessory fuse box…..it would provide another can of worms for most folks. They certainly don't make it easy with some of the dedicated connections. I suppose it's educational. :roll eyes:

I likely should have added a non-Honda accessory switch plate "gang" and switches early on. At least I'd be working with common, locally available, electrical connectors.
 

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I likely should have added a non-Honda accessory switch plate "gang" and switches early on. At least I'd be working with common, locally available, electrical connectors.
Can you give me a link to something like this you're talking about? I'm picking mine up in a couple weeks.

Thanks!!!!!
 

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Here is a link…..allthough I did not check it very throughly:

There are lots of others. There was a good thread in Nov that had a switch panel developed by a member here. It seemed quite good. The Honda switch set up is good…..is just costs too much when all components are purchased thru Honda…..IMO.

Here is another link:
 

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To follow on my LED light install….. I finished this install today. Waaay too much time spent as I had to re-build, and re-engineer a few things.

I forgot to order the "pins" listed on relliason's post. PN 538-02-08-1002 Figured they could be found locally…..WRONG. Nothing fits that size. I ended up making some pins from some appliance butt connectors I found after a number of trips to Radio Shack and area hardware stores….grrrrrr. Had to drill them out and solder the connections…..and tweak to fit. Was kinda an ordeal. If you go this route….dont forget to BUY THE PINS!! They are only 5 cents each.

I finally looked at my project like a jigsaw puzzle…..sometimes it just takes time. Good thing I am retired. :D All works as it should now…..but this was a challenge for me.

The new LED light intensity is at least 3x the Honda headlights alone. VERY NICE!
 

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Here is a pic of the honda accessory fuse box and wire connection locations. This is located under the hood when you buy the accessory wiring kit. The two pin connectors at the top (one is for aux lites and one for light bar) is where the connetor pins and plastic connection get plugged in. Also a 5 amp fuse is employed in the same box for the new circuit. (it goes right below the 7.5 amp fuse in the photo.

I have one switch location remaining now. I plan to install the Honda heater….and the heater fan will be controlled in that location.
 

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I may be able to help with some of the issues. I did use the carling illuminated switches which are a little tricky on the install, but they still use the same connector that came in the accy fuse box kit. You just have to move the connectors within the connector housing to the location that works with the carling rocker switch.
 
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