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Oil and filter change, air filter inspection, might check valve clearance, check idle speed, check brakes, diff oils, parking brake adjustment, and a bunch of other little things.

Page 95 & 96 in the owners manual lays it out pretty well. Same info that's in the service manual.
 

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Oil and filter change, air filter inspection, might check valve clearance, check idle speed, check brakes, diff oils, parking brake adjustment, and a bunch of other little things.

Page 95 & 96 in the owners manual lays it out pretty well. Same info that's in the service manual.
This is all good info to have up here. When does the light come on for the first service? I figure that usually everything is fine and they just change the oil and filter. Most of the other inspections are just in case. Am I right?
 

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Yes. They will for sure change oil and filter. The rest will probably be just inspections unless they find something.

100 miles or 20 hours is the setting for the first maintenance interval.
 
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I wouldn't check the valve tappet clearances (and recommend this to my customers) until the second oil change. On the first just change the motor oil/filter, check final drive lube levels, boots and everything else. The first reminder comes on at 20 hours or 100 miles, it will be every 600 miles/100 hours after that. Remember to reset the meter and when you cycle through it, it tells you how far you have until the next oil change (or how far over you are).
 

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I wouldn't check the valve tappet clearances (and recommend this to my customers) until the second oil change. On the first just change the motor oil/filter, check final drive lube levels, boots and everything else. The first reminder comes on at 20 hours or 100 miles, it will be every 600 miles/100 hours after that. Remember to reset the meter and when you cycle through it, it tells you how far you have until the next oil change (or how far over you are).
What about someone like me? I have about 38 miles but more than 20 hours. When I asked my dealer he told me not worry about the hours so much but make sure when I get to 100 miles to bring it for first service. He says many farmers like me will run their machines more than drive them just by the nature of checking fence rows and walking away to repair fencing. I think even if I am not driving and my machine is idling more that the idling is harder on the engine? Any thoughts.
 

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I d say do the mileage cause the motor is the only thing turning if its idling. no wear on the brakes and less wear on engine cause idling at lower rpm than driving so less wear on everything else
 

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What about someone like me? I have about 38 miles but more than 20 hours. When I asked my dealer he told me not worry about the hours so much but make sure when I get to 100 miles to bring it for first service. He says many farmers like me will run their machines more than drive them just by the nature of checking fence rows and walking away to repair fencing. I think even if I am not driving and my machine is idling more that the idling is harder on the engine? Any thoughts.
On the first oil change, change it. If there is any left over particles from the machining processes you want that out of there as soon as possible. I go by the hours or mileage, which ever comes first. Sure you can be a little relaxed about it but it's still run time on the motor.

i don't understand why you have to check valves every 600 miles. I have a sled that has the first check at 10,000 miles. The sled is turning 7500 rpm all day.
I don't go by the book on checking valve clearances. Most of my customers will bring them in once a year to get them completely checked over. They use the machines daily and they get used hard. Most of the time the clearances are close or good.
 

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Keep in mind that just because you check them doesn't mean they're out and have to be adjusted.
I'd normally agree with the the 2nd oil change thing, but with one caveat: Keep an ear on your motor! Mine had loosened up enough to be noisy by 60 miles...and i don't run it hard at all.

Shim under bucket systems tend to hold settings longer, but are considerably harder to adjust, and I'd bet the 10,000 miles sled is this type.

I'd rather do it every 600 with easy adjustments than have to go through pulling the cams, measuring shims ( and possibly buying a shim kit ), and doing math every 5000 or so ( what seems to be normal for ATV's with shim-under-bucket valves ) with the other type.

FYI: Yamaha Genesis ( 5-valve ) bike engines go 26,600 miles between valve adjustments!
 

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Depending on the winter, it may be quite a bit:) I understand the first service. It was the every 600 miles that threw me off with a honda 4 stroke engine. I have a good dealer and I will have him do the first service. I will probably do the rest.
 
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