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Homemade Lexan Windshield

51K views 49 replies 22 participants last post by  phongngo999 
#1 ·
I know this method isn't for everyone, but if you are looking for a good durable windshield that doesn't cost an arm and a leg, this might be an option.

1. You will need a Lexan of your choice. I went with a version that has UV protection on both sides.

2. Self adhesive weather stripping. I went with a 1" foam.

3. Zip ties.

Tools: something to cut the Lexan (unless you have it precut). I used a Dremel sawmax. Plus a drill to make the mounting holes.

Estimated project time: under 30 minutes.



I was able to pick up a 36"x48" sheet for $75 from a hardware store.



I measured the space available. 48" was perfect for the width and 30" for height. I snapped a line on the Lexan and used my sawmax with a multi purpose blade. (If you don't work with This material a lot, I suggest setting it on cardboard to cut. That way any extra blade depth isn't hitting your work table and it allows you to cut on a flat surface so the sheet doesn't bend.



I took the cut to size sheet and peeled back the protective film enough that I could apply the weather stripping to the edges on the back sides. I then drilled my mounting holes.



The next step is mounting to the machine. A second pair of hands here would make it a simpler process, it can be done with one person, but you can't be unwilling to have some zip ties in your mouth :)



After it's secure, peel off the film and your ready for the trails.



A photo looking through the new windshield.



Shot to compare looking through the Lexan compared to looking through nothing.

My total cost on this project was $75. As I had everything on hand but the sheet. The windshield is quick to detach and it only takes 6 zip ties to put it back on. So if you remove your roof and windshield to haul the Pioneer, it's a quick off and on process.
 
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#2 ·
Looks good Moose, and you saved a pile over the OEM unit.
Money left over for ...........?
 
#3 ·
A good portion of my heater maybe. Or some ammo reloading supplies. Both things I need or want for the winter. :)
 
#5 ·
I'm here to help. Any other questions, feel free to ask or message.
 
#7 ·
I tried to catch the edges in some pics.



Sawmax cut edge. The protective film is still on it, that's some of the flakiness you see.



Factory edge

No, it didn't melt it. You have to mindful of that though. You want the proper blade, set your depth, keep a steady pace, and use a sacrificial base to cut on that won't add heat to the blade a great deal(Cardboard in this case heats the blade minimally by adding little stress or friction). This is just my method. I have worked with acrylic and poly sheets quite a bit. There are other ways to cut it. I did a quick search and supplied a link below.

As they suggest in the link, you can use sand paper to smooth the edge. I didn't do that, since the one edge I cut was up under the roof.

Any other questions, feel free to ask.:)

How to Cut Lexan | eHow
 
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#9 ·
Yeah, and the stuff is tough. 250 times stronger than glass, well that's what they say, but I don't doubt it. If you need to remove it, it stores flat, or bent, it's much more forgiving than the rigid windows. God forbid you flip up a log and it hits your windshield, it's cheap to replace if it gets marred up.
 
#11 ·
I have had it up to around 20mph since I put it on. I haven't noticed any wind. The foam weatherstripping worked well, sealed down tight. Haven't had any rattles or squeaks either. I cinched those zip ties well though. I'll be sure to report if any issues arise.
 
#15 ·
I used 3/32" (.093")
 
#16 ·
And welcome to the forum bk1!
 
#18 ·
Great minds think alike I guess! Just seemed like the best thickness for the job. It will contour, but isn't too flimsy.

Have any other mods in mind ?
 
#20 ·
Sounds good. I have been kicking around a couple ideas as well. Look forward to seeing what you rig up.
 
#22 ·
Well its 3/32". So yes, I would say it was flimsy in your hands.

It doesn't rattle or vibrate installed.

There are plenty of different sheets to choose from. If you're interested in using this idea, its best to just tailor the thickness to your needs or personal happiness. That's why I didn't list the thickness I used. Its not for everyone.
 
#25 ·
Moose:

Which hardware store did you purchase this at? What is the thicknesss of the sheet?

Thank you!
DB,

I picked my Lexan up at Menards. Don't know if you have one of those or not, but I'd guess that Home Depot or lowes should have similar or be able to order some in for you.

I didn't list what thickness I used because I wanted everyone to tailor it to their needs and preferences. Just the feel of it in some peoples hand and they won't like it. So keep that in mind when I say 3/32" (.093) inches. If your going to be spending time above 20mph or running through heavy branches I would use a thicker sheet or zip tie on some braces to the top, bottom, and maybe the middle. I haven't really tested at high speed as my property is not open or smooth enough to do it. Make sure you use a good quality zip tie too. You don't want that thing popping loose and smacking you in the grill. Hahaha.

Ok, with all the disclaimers out of the way. I haven't had any issues with mine at all. Heck I even drilled holes through it and mounted my LEDs via a bolt tightened onto it and have had zero problems. If I had the project to do over again, I probably would of added those braces, maybe a thin rebar painted black to the top and middle to give more high speed support ( I think I still might).

As always, any more questions, feel free to shoot me a message.
 
#29 ·
I think that both of your improvements to my beta model are great. I might suggest a couple rubber washers or some other vibration dampening on that bare metal where you would attach it to the Lexan. I don't know that it would rattle without it, but might just be easier to add before the install in case it would.
 
#28 ·
DB Cooper, I use those clamps on my home made windshield. I use 1/4 inch optical grade acrylic that I purchased from a local glass shop. Polaris uses those clamps on their rzr windshields. One tip is to use a rubber washer between the clamp and the windshield. I used 6 of these clamps on my windshield and also used self locking nuts. It will stand up to full speed runs on the Honda and I have even hauled it short distances on the trailer at speeds over 55 mph. I also used a piece of weatherstrip on each side of the frame where the windshield meets up to the frame.
 
#31 ·
I am sure at some point anything is overkill, but I don't think your idea is anywhere close to that point.
 
#35 ·
I used your idea Moose for the windshield, thanks for the idea, dimensions, ect. It works great! After some more options for windshields ,doors,& roofs show up I'll probably buy something but for now this will work great, I used 1/8 inch because that's all I could find but with the weatherstripping it only cost 45$ At a local glass shop. I used another piece of lexan at the top to make a support back to the top crossbar to stiffen it up some more. Thanks again
 
#36 ·
You are welcome sir. I am happy to see you took my plan amd made it cheaper and better for your needs.
 
#38 ·
I wouldn't, if your using a thinner piece like mine and zip ties. I know a few people have used actual brackets and thicker material. Which, they might be able too.

The nice thing about mine is, you can take it off by cutting three zip ties on each side, so taking it on and off is pretty easy. you just need to have a small supply of zip ties and about 5 minutes total to take it off and then back on.

My current set up I wouldn't rate it higher than 20mph. My property isn't open enough for me to get going faster than that for more than a split second. If I was going to be going faster. I'd probably run a support across the top and bottom of the Lexan. Don't know if you read through the last couple pages of comments, but some brackets came up and some bracing as people modified the idea to fit their needs. Hope that helps.
 
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#40 ·
I really like your windshield Moose, but trailering would also be my problem. Towing down the interstate at 60-70 mph has me concerned about any windshield with the hard top.

I'm not very excited about shelling out what Honda wants for theirs either though.
If I was going to be on a trailer with mine at all, I'd take the roof and the windshield of and strap them on the trailer bed under the Pioneer, for gas savings alone.

I think if you made a cheap metal frame and did a little heavier mounting bracket, it would probably be ok, but yeah, even factory roof and window would make me a little nervous too, I have a tendency to drift up towards 90 down the highway
 
#42 ·
That sounds like a really good deal. Are you thinking about making the extra into a back window? I never measured for the rear, but it might work
 
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