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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's amazing what you can learn in such a short time on a site.

So, I had a ranger 500 previously. I had set up reverse lights on it with LEDs. I wanted to do the same on this but with much better lights.

Founds some LEDs at Walmart. Wondered where to put the switch (since I'd rather have these manual than only when in R).

Found threads on people removing the warning signal which opens up a HUGE area for switches of all kinds.

So I just did the same! Put some screws through each corner where the rivet holes were. Then got some speaker mounting screws which I have a ton of, put a tab of super glue on the back, then reached in from the hood side and screwed them on so they were tight. Glue dries, now I have a permanent way to hold on the panel and also able to remove it any time.

I plan on getting some screw caps too to make it even prettier.. here it is so far, just waiting for the glue to dry, then I'm going to put my first switch in and install the rear lights:



The plastic is from an old craftsman jigsaw case I had JUST thrown out because the saw had blown up (from a friend using it of course... never lend out tools to idiots).

It isn't PERFECT match to the texture, but it's DARN close. I may even put a coat of black or red Plasti-dip on it as well.

From what I can tell almost every square inch behind this open for switches. There is a bar that I will avoid just in case, but things should work out great.

Next, a bed light, then maybe some front fogs!
 

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Nice!, Its funny how we all go through the same thing, I have been looking around for something to make a plate out of but the only thing I have found is a drill case on the shelf in the garage. I even walked around Home Depot for 1/2 hour looking. I didn't want to use aluminum because paint won't stick very long. Do you think it is strong enough?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think it will be plenty strong.

If I wouldn't have found this I would have used a thin piece of plywood (probably 1/8th or less) and just painted it with Plasti-dip everywhere to protect it and make it look more like the plastic.

If need be I can always add supports on the rear too, but it is plenty study for some switches.
 

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If it isn't strong enough could always put a piece of aluminum on the back side. That's it drill case it is, just taking up room anyway.
 

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Sure looks right Gagala, shipping is a little pricey for us up here though. I wonder if anyone carries it in stock?

 

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I agree. We get nailed on shipping. But I have a system.
There is a company called KINEK.
They give you an adress in the US along the border that you can use as your shipping address. They keep your packages for you up to one month for $5.00 per package or $40.00 per pallet.
As I said you have 1 month to pick them up.
For examples a set of wheels/ tires will cost me 850.00 plus $40.00 instead of $1400.00 in Canada.
And I am lucky I live 45 minutes from the border.
It was great when our dollar was worth $1.13 US. Not so good now that it is the other way around.

My shipping point is actually a building material company in Malone NY
 

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great idea!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Back in college when i installed car stereos we could buy sheets of abs like that dirt cheap. id check around at stereo shops.
 

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I was going to put in a fusion stereo abandon due to excessive heat but that area makes a great switch panel. Use a piece of starboard or aluminum sheet, 20 gauge and some nice backlit switches. I.E. backup light, iPod amp whatever makes you happy!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I wish I could move the speedo there (maybe I can!) I can't see it at all since I'm taller and the steering wheel completely blocks it..
 
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