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Want heat? Here's how you do it....

51331 Views 36 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  Minnesota Pioneer
This install is not for everyone. You need to be mechanically inclined, have plenty of patience, and a good set of tools. Want to move forward? Here ya go. This heater is used for a very specific reason. Note that there are two outvents. The split in the middle will accommodate a support bar in the middle of your frame. No cutting needed! READ THIS IN ITS ENTIRETY BEFORE YOU START. That's so you know what you are up against. Then come back here and begin.

Heres what you need:

Summit heater:

Vent kit for heater:

2 twelve inch shelf brackets from Home Depot -pic below

3 ft of 5/8 heater hose that you will cut in half. These go on summit heater

2 six foot pieces of 3/4 heater hose. These will run back to you coolant tie in at upper oil cooler line

2 heater hose adaptors from 5/8 to 3/4 These can be had at autozone part number 48070

1 90 degree heater hose fitting. Used to give you 90 degrees out of upper oil cooler line so no hose kink. Home Depot

10 pack of heater hose clamps. Home depot

1/2 Gallon of Honda antifreeze to fill lines to minimize air. Fill hose prior to button up.

Four 12" zip ties to keep heater hose properly routed.

2ft of power line for main power supply for fan switch with fuse. autozone

Four 1/4-20 by 3/4 inch long bolts with flat and lock washers. Used in tapped holes to secure brackets.

Four 5/16 bolts with flat washers and nylon lock nuts. Will secure heater to mounting brackets.

Tools needed:

Sawzall to cut centers out of brackets and to cut brackets to length

Drill with 5/16th bit for bolt holes in bracket and 13/64th bit for tapped holes for heater mounting brackets.

Dremmel with cutting bit. Used to cut holes for vents in dash.

Wire strippers and crimpers. Used for switch for fan.

Electrical tape/Wire nut. Used to tie into harness power line.

Tape measure. Used to help center vents on proper location

Welding tip cleaner drill bit. This is a mini drill bit setup Get at welding supply store. Used to pilot vent location centers.

Nut driver or screwdriver to tighten hose clamps.

Patience, time, and desire to be warm

There are two sets of mounting brackets. One set comes with the heater and is used to mount the heater to your chassis mounting brackets that you will get at Home Depot. Here is what these brackets look like when you first get them.

Cut the center angles out of them with the sawzall. When done they will look like this:

Now we need to cut the ends off of the mounting brackets. In the inside angle of these, there is already a bolt hold drilled. This is great. One less that we need to do. One at a time lay a bracket on your frame like you see it in the installed picture below. Use a marker to mark where you will trim this bracket with your sawzall. You will trim both ends. Take note to how these brackets sit inside the under-hood area. You will cut them where I have the arrows pointing. Although the picture shows the heater installed, obviously at this point you will just be dealing with the brackets:

Look at the picture again. see where the bolt is securing the bracket towards the bottom of the picture? You will need to use your marker to mark the bracket where you will use the 5/16 drill bit to make the mounting hole. Only doing this on the bracket at this time. Do not drill that actual frame yet.

While you are at it, you need to drill two holes in each bracket to match the mounting holes on the heater bracket. These holes will be use to secure the heater to your frame mounting brackets. Rest the heater on the brackets (like shown in pic below) and mark those holes for drilling now as well. The heater face (not including the vent protrusions) should be just barely flush with the back on the brackets. In other words, set it like you see it mounted in the picture above and then mark the holes. The holes should be centered in the slots on the heater bracket and if anything, towards the end of the slot that is closest to the front of the machine so you will be able to slide it away from the cab if needed. Use your 5/16 drill bit to drill these three holes on each of the mounting brackets now.

Here is where the heater should be sitting when you are marking the holes for where to drill:

Now use the 5/16 bolts washers and nylon lock nuts to mount the heater onto the brackets.

The heater MUST be centered in the underhood compartment so that when you put the vent hoses on, they will split the support brace under the hood. You may need a helper. You will need to hold it in place and then use a marker to mark where you will be drilling your mounting holes into the frame. Make sure you run your fingers along the vent outputs to make sure it is centered. Each of the two vents should split that center support frame brace. Once centered, get your helper to mark your four mounting locations. Your marks should be very similar to the silver ones you see in the pic below (do not pay attention to the big arrows yet...just the little ones):

Use your 13/64 drill bit to drill your mounting holes. It is essential that you have these marked and drilled properly so use a center punch if needed to make sure the bit does not walk.

Now use the 1/4-20 tap to thread the mounting holes.

For the vents, take a look at the picture above again. They two big arrows point to where your vents will go. There are two perfect areas for this. If you have a good eye you can center up where the middle of the vent will be. You will use the welding tip cleaner drill bit to create your pilot holes for the vents. Go in the cab and mark where the drill bit comes through so you know where to center the vents.

Inside the cab, center the vents over the newly created pilot holes and use your marker to draw a circle around them. The vents simply push in and lock in place. It is the end that you would be pushing in that should be pressed up against the under-dash area and then drawn around. This part does take a skilled hand. Use your dremmel with cutting drill bit to go through your pilot hole and then cut the circle out as precisely as you can. This needs to be a precision fit so do not over-do the hole. Under-do it and then correct as needed to get the perfect fit for the vents.

Once the holes are done, insert the vents and it will look like this when completed:

Here is what they should look like from the under-hood area view:

The heater gives you a LOT of extra wire. You really don't even need to feet of it if you install the switch as I have positioned below. At any rate, find out where you will be installing your switch and then trim the harness to length. Once this is done, go ahead and crimp your connectors onto the wires and pay attention to the wiring diagram that comes with the heater. This is also the point where you will use your power source wire and crimp it as well. Leave it about 3 feet long or so for now. Will trim later.

The pic below shows where I installed my 3-position switch that comes with the heater. Find where you want to put yours and use the drill to make the initial hole and the dremmel to shape it to the flat edge on the switch. Again, start small and work your way up to size.

Now install and trim your vent tubes provided with the vent kit. Leave enough slack on the tubes that you can pull the heater out easily if needed. Here is what mine looks like installed:

Now lets go ahead and mount the heater. Put your vent hoses on first, then install the heater in your tapped threads from steps earlier using the 1/4-20 bolts with lock washers.

Now lets connect the heater coolant lines. We will tap the lines near the engine at the oil cooler. The picture below shows you were they should run. You will have about 1 foot of 5/8 line coming off each of the heater access points. We will use our 5/8 to 3/4 adaptors to make this junction as you see in the completed picture at the end of this post. You will not use the currently installed oil cooler line. Your heater hoses will replace it.

Route your heater hose along the passenger side of the machine back to the oil cooler. The 90 degree adaptor will be use on the upper oil cooler line. This is so the heater hose does not kink. It will only need to come out of the oil cooler line a few inches before going into the 90 degree adaptor.

Once the lines are secured, trim the coolant hoses at the front of the machine so that they will butt up directly to your 5/8 to 3/4 adaptors. Leave a little slack for flexibility. Fill up each of the coolant lines running to the back and then attach the bottom one to your adaptor. Then fill up the heater core and attach the top one. Button everything up. Note that you will have some air in the lines at this point. We will burp it later.

Here is where you tap for the coolant lines:

Use your zip ties to secure the coolant lines along the factory coolant lines. We don't want them flapping in the wind. I did in fact pull the skid plate down some on the passenger side so that I could reach the factory lines.

The wiring harness is located in the underhood compartment on the passenger side. That entire bundle will lift out of that compartment to give you access to your tie in point. I chose to wire mine to the main power supply found in this bundle. If you want yours on the key switch, the power will need to come from the other side where it comes out of the ignition switch. NOTE: someone may have already found a place where it can be tapped elsewhere for keyed ignition. I wanted mine on the main supply so I did not look for this.

Here is what you should look like when complete:

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Great write-up @BuggyMasters, bump this up a bit it will be popular in the coming months! Their shipping costs are very reasonable also.

Was the heat output what you expected?
Oh ya it would run you out of the cab. It was plenty.
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Wow ! ! I'm impressed - Great write-up . . . . . . . . . :)
Great write up and good job, this will indeed come in handy!
Super informative write-up. Thanks for taking the time to write this for everyone.
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Has anyone spent the money to buy the honda heater? Wonder if it puts out anywhere near the heat as the one used in this write up.
I installed my heater as per @BuggyMasters install guide.

Thanks for the write-up it saved some head scratching. The only thing I did differently is turn the heater around the other way so the the water lines and wires were on the same side. I also moved it towards the front 1 1/2" to give a little more clearance for the vent hoses and used stainless steel bolts and hose clamps. I left enough slack in everything so I can remove the bolts and pull it out far enough to get behind it if needed.
It took an evening to install.
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Yep this is time and money well spent!!! If you want a mod where you can really appreciate its existence, this is the mod to do!
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I performed this install early last month and followed this write up to the letter.

It exceeded my expectations and really does throw out the heat!

I use my machine for plowing and it is quite comfortable even at lower temperatures. So far I plowed with it down to about 0 degrees F and got by wearing jeans, sweatshirt and ball cap! Quite a difference from last winter when I still had not added the doors or the heater of course.

Trail riding is a little different due to all the air gaps in the cab. I found the key there is to spend a little time sealing up the cab. I have the two piece windshield, hard roof, hard mid panel, with soft doors. I noticed that the heater blower fan produces quite a but of air flow and that the cab doesn't need to be 100% air tight. On high speed, the cab becomes a little positive in pressure keeping cold air out. Sealing is especially important on the leading edge gaps around the windshield, dash areas, brake/gas pedal, and doors and maybe not so critical around the back panel, seat belts, dump handle etc, even though I did eventually get to those areas as well.

When it was all said and done, I think it ran somewhere around $250.00 making it in my opinion, the best value mod I've made yet. It did take me better part of a Saturday but I was not in a hurry and rather enjoyed the time in the garage alone. (Some of you know what I mean)

Thanks for a great write up!
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I don't know if anyone has installed one on a 500 yet.

This heater measures 9.5" W x 6.5" D x 8.625" H and draws 9.6 amps on high. I never heard how much power is available on the 500 but you should have lots.
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thanks Dick. really appreciate it. i also saw the aqua hot system only draws 2 amp
Well as always I wait until the last minute, I just tried to order a heater from summit & they are back ordered until the last of December. Does anyone know who makes the heater for summit & are they available anywhere else under a different name? Great write up & directions for the install on the pioneer 700, thank you Buggymasters
Yes you can get the exact same heater from Maradyne Universal Stoker Heaters.

Amazon has them for $153

You should get the vent kit to go with it.

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Thanks Dick, I ordered one from carid online. I tried on amazon but when I clicked on the picture it showed one with a grill & not the 2 outlets. Carid price was 159.38 / vent kit 39.35. & were in stock Thanks again. I think the vents you were showing from amazon are only 2 inch for 24.$
I don't know if anyone has installed one on a 500 yet.

This heater measures 9.5" W x 6.5" D x 8.625" H and draws 9.6 amps on high. I never heard how much power is available on the 500 but you should have lots.
I am not all that familiar with the 500 as for as under hood available space, but I believe someone here did install one inside the cab on his 700.

This may be an option for the 500 guy's that have been asking.
You got one that's all that matters 5kirks. I see they do have the wrong picture on that page but the description is right and the part number is the same as mine, it mentions that it is the wrong picture.

Hopefully one of our 500 owners will figure it out Minnesota and write a heater how to for others. I noticed that Honda doesn't even have a heater for the 500 yet, maybe they are still working on it..
May need to do this as well. Awesome write up and thanks!
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