Want heat? Here's how you do it....

This install is not for everyone. You need to be mechanically inclined, have plenty of patience, and a good set of tools. Want to move forward? Here ya go. This heater is used for a very specific reason. Note that there are two outvents. The split in the middle will accommodate a support bar in the middle of your frame. No cutting needed! READ THIS IN ITS ENTIRETY BEFORE YOU START. That's so you know what you are up against. Then come back here and begin.

Heres what you need:

Summit heater: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-991102-1/overview/

Vent kit for heater: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-991103-1/overview/

2 twelve inch shelf brackets from Home Depot -pic below

3 ft of 5/8 heater hose that you will cut in half. These go on summit heater

2 six foot pieces of 3/4 heater hose. These will run back to you coolant tie in at upper oil cooler line

2 heater hose adaptors from 5/8 to 3/4 These can be had at autozone part number 48070

1 90 degree heater hose fitting. Used to give you 90 degrees out of upper oil cooler line so no hose kink. Home Depot

10 pack of heater hose clamps. Home depot

1/2 Gallon of Honda antifreeze to fill lines to minimize air. Fill hose prior to button up.

Four 12" zip ties to keep heater hose properly routed.

2ft of power line for main power supply for fan switch with fuse. autozone

Four 1/4-20 by 3/4 inch long bolts with flat and lock washers. Used in tapped holes to secure brackets.

Four 5/16 bolts with flat washers and nylon lock nuts. Will secure heater to mounting brackets.

Tools needed:

Sawzall to cut centers out of brackets and to cut brackets to length

Drill with 5/16th bit for bolt holes in bracket and 13/64th bit for tapped holes for heater mounting brackets.

Dremmel with cutting bit. Used to cut holes for vents in dash.

Wire strippers and crimpers. Used for switch for fan.

Electrical tape/Wire nut. Used to tie into harness power line.

Tape measure. Used to help center vents on proper location

Welding tip cleaner drill bit. This is a mini drill bit setup Get at welding supply store. Used to pilot vent location centers.

Nut driver or screwdriver to tighten hose clamps.

Patience, time, and desire to be warm

There are two sets of mounting brackets. One set comes with the heater and is used to mount the heater to your chassis mounting brackets that you will get at Home Depot. Here is what these brackets look like when you first get them.



Cut the center angles out of them with the sawzall. When done they will look like this:



Now we need to cut the ends off of the mounting brackets. In the inside angle of these, there is already a bolt hold drilled. This is great. One less that we need to do. One at a time lay a bracket on your frame like you see it in the installed picture below. Use a marker to mark where you will trim this bracket with your sawzall. You will trim both ends. Take note to how these brackets sit inside the under-hood area. You will cut them where I have the arrows pointing. Although the picture shows the heater installed, obviously at this point you will just be dealing with the brackets:



Look at the picture again. see where the bolt is securing the bracket towards the bottom of the picture? You will need to use your marker to mark the bracket where you will use the 5/16 drill bit to make the mounting hole. Only doing this on the bracket at this time. Do not drill that actual frame yet.

While you are at it, you need to drill two holes in each bracket to match the mounting holes on the heater bracket. These holes will be use to secure the heater to your frame mounting brackets. Rest the heater on the brackets (like shown in pic below) and mark those holes for drilling now as well. The heater face (not including the vent protrusions) should be just barely flush with the back on the brackets. In other words, set it like you see it mounted in the picture above and then mark the holes. The holes should be centered in the slots on the heater bracket and if anything, towards the end of the slot that is closest to the front of the machine so you will be able to slide it away from the cab if needed. Use your 5/16 drill bit to drill these three holes on each of the mounting brackets now.

Here is where the heater should be sitting when you are marking the holes for where to drill:



Now use the 5/16 bolts washers and nylon lock nuts to mount the heater onto the brackets.

The heater MUST be centered in the underhood compartment so that when you put the vent hoses on, they will split the support brace under the hood. You may need a helper. You will need to hold it in place and then use a marker to mark where you will be drilling your mounting holes into the frame. Make sure you run your fingers along the vent outputs to make sure it is centered. Each of the two vents should split that center support frame brace. Once centered, get your helper to mark your four mounting locations. Your marks should be very similar to the silver ones you see in the pic below (do not pay attention to the big arrows yet...just the little ones):



Use your 13/64 drill bit to drill your mounting holes. It is essential that you have these marked and drilled properly so use a center punch if needed to make sure the bit does not walk.

Now use the 1/4-20 tap to thread the mounting holes.

For the vents, take a look at the picture above again. They two big arrows point to where your vents will go. There are two perfect areas for this. If you have a good eye you can center up where the middle of the vent will be. You will use the welding tip cleaner drill bit to create your pilot holes for the vents. Go in the cab and mark where the drill bit comes through so you know where to center the vents.

Inside the cab, center the vents over the newly created pilot holes and use your marker to draw a circle around them. The vents simply push in and lock in place. It is the end that you would be pushing in that should be pressed up against the under-dash area and then drawn around. This part does take a skilled hand. Use your dremmel with cutting drill bit to go through your pilot hole and then cut the circle out as precisely as you can. This needs to be a precision fit so do not over-do the hole. Under-do it and then correct as needed to get the perfect fit for the vents.

Once the holes are done, insert the vents and it will look like this when completed:



Here is what they should look like from the under-hood area view:



The heater gives you a LOT of extra wire. You really don't even need to feet of it if you install the switch as I have positioned below. At any rate, find out where you will be installing your switch and then trim the harness to length. Once this is done, go ahead and crimp your connectors onto the wires and pay attention to the wiring diagram that comes with the heater. This is also the point where you will use your power source wire and crimp it as well. Leave it about 3 feet long or so for now. Will trim later.

The pic below shows where I installed my 3-position switch that comes with the heater. Find where you want to put yours and use the drill to make the initial hole and the dremmel to shape it to the flat edge on the switch. Again, start small and work your way up to size.



Now install and trim your vent tubes provided with the vent kit. Leave enough slack on the tubes that you can pull the heater out easily if needed. Here is what mine looks like installed:



Now lets go ahead and mount the heater. Put your vent hoses on first, then install the heater in your tapped threads from steps earlier using the 1/4-20 bolts with lock washers.

Now lets connect the heater coolant lines. We will tap the lines near the engine at the oil cooler. The picture below shows you were they should run. You will have about 1 foot of 5/8 line coming off each of the heater access points. We will use our 5/8 to 3/4 adaptors to make this junction as you see in the completed picture at the end of this post. You will not use the currently installed oil cooler line. Your heater hoses will replace it.

Route your heater hose along the passenger side of the machine back to the oil cooler. The 90 degree adaptor will be use on the upper oil cooler line. This is so the heater hose does not kink. It will only need to come out of the oil cooler line a few inches before going into the 90 degree adaptor.

Once the lines are secured, trim the coolant hoses at the front of the machine so that they will butt up directly to your 5/8 to 3/4 adaptors. Leave a little slack for flexibility. Fill up each of the coolant lines running to the back and then attach the bottom one to your adaptor. Then fill up the heater core and attach the top one. Button everything up. Note that you will have some air in the lines at this point. We will burp it later.

Here is where you tap for the coolant lines:



Use your zip ties to secure the coolant lines along the factory coolant lines. We don't want them flapping in the wind. I did in fact pull the skid plate down some on the passenger side so that I could reach the factory lines.

The wiring harness is located in the underhood compartment on the passenger side. That entire bundle will lift out of that compartment to give you access to your tie in point. I chose to wire mine to the main power supply found in this bundle. If you want yours on the key switch, the power will need to come from the other side where it comes out of the ignition switch. NOTE: someone may have already found a place where it can be tapped elsewhere for keyed ignition. I wanted mine on the main supply so I did not look for this.

Here is what you should look like when complete: