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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wondering how long you all are warming up your machines? I know the manual states something about waiting until the gauge starts to move toward the right. Do you guys go with one bar or two and how long is it taking for it to get there? Obviously geographic location will alter the warm up times.
 

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Just wondering how long you all are warming up your machines? I know the manual states something about waiting until the gauge starts to move toward the right. Do you guys go with one bar or two and how long is it taking for it to get there? Obviously geographic location will alter the warm up times.
I give it about 1-2 minutes above 30 degrees 3-5 minutes 0-30 degrees, and 5-10 minutes at a temp below zero.

I don't pay any attention to the gauge when warming up. Start all my vehicles with that time frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Moose! I've probably been running up the hour meter by babying this thing.
 

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Thanks Moose! I've probably been running up the hour meter by babying this thing.
I see you have an outlaw 50. We have a 90. Is yours cold blooded? I think it takes us 15 + minutes of choke and throttle to get that thing to idle on its own sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Yes, it does take some time for that thing to get going on its own without the choke. It will idle great at half choke, but as soon as I close it, it dies. We had a little trouble with the starter and had it replaced along with a little tune up and it just purs now, but still takes a while to warm up. I think the clutch is out as well and the shop missed it so I gotta take a look at that.
 

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My 5 year old, well he was four when we bought it, can get pretty impatient by the time that thing warms up enough to go. I can't seem to narrow down a sweet spot on the choke, so him or myself has to devote that time to running the throttle to keep it running until it's warmed up. Every time I start it, I'm glad I didn't buy a Ranger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah that's what helped sell me on the Pioneer over the Ranger; Reading the Ranger forums, lol
 

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I usually just give it about 30 sec and I'm off and it's the same with my ATV's. Now my Polaris RMK700 snowmobile (with CVT) must be warmed up well. I've learned my lesson... ruined a few belts that way.
 

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I usually give it about 5 minutes to warm up but I don't think it really needs it..prob. just burning my hour meter more than anything
 

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I think a couple minutes is enough warm up idle, the key is not to run it hard until it is fully warmed up, motor oil gets very thick in cold temps and does not lubricate well.

When I picked my machine up at the dealer I had to initial a sheet that the salesman went over with me, one item was that I could not use anything but Honda oil. Later talking the service manager he said that is not nessesarily the case. I am a strong believer in using quality synthetic oil, I have seen the difference it makes in racing applications. Honda wants too much for thier synthetic oil and its never on sale.
 

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I think a couple minutes is enough warm up idle, the key is not to run it hard until it is fully warmed up, motor oil gets very thick in cold temps and does not lubricate well.

When I picked my machine up at the dealer I had to initial a sheet that the salesman went over with me, one item was that I could not use anything but Honda oil. Later talking the service manager he said that is not nessesarily the case. I am a strong believer in using quality synthetic oil, I have seen the difference it makes in racing applications. Honda wants too much for thier synthetic oil and its never on sale.
If you reference your owners manual, page 114. It will tell you what badging to look for on your oil choices. I also agree that you don't need to use the Honda oil. Just base your selections on what they laid out, especially while still under warranty.
 

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If you reference your owners manual, page 114. It will tell you what badging to look for on your oil choices. I also agree that you don't need to use the Honda oil. Just base your selections on what they laid out, especially while still under warranty.
I agree Moose very important to get the right viscosity. The W in the SAE number means the flow was tested in low temperatures (winter). Did you know that regular motor oil uses additives to get the low temperature flow, where as true synthetic does not need additives to achieve this, but there is only one true synthetic from the big oil companies left and that is "Mobil 1 Extended Performance", the rest are all synthetic blends even though they call themselves full synthetic. Some people think synthetic oil is made of some kind of plastic, it is just more refined oil to get the best lubricating molecules. Never put synthetic oil in a new motor always let it break in with regular oil for a couple oil changes first, it lubricates too well to let things seat properly.
 

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Dick, you sound like a person well versed in oils. I run Mobile 1 synthetic in my ninjas and in the engine of my Harley's. I wouldn't run anything else in a motor between my legs spinning at 11,000+ RPM :) It also dropped the temp on my Harley motors noticeably. I run the Suzuki full synthetic race oil in my quads(it's cheaper here). And Quaker State (regular) in my cars and trucks for the road. In my differentials, transfer cases, and tranny's. I run either Lucas,redline, or valvoline full synthetic ATF.

Would you be putting the Pioneer on a Mobil 1 synthetic then?
 

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Would you be putting the Pioneer on a Mobil 1 synthetic then?
You know I will Moose, want my P4 to last. I have a problem with it I need the dealer to fix first. I was driving along about 40 and something went astray in the motor just like someone flicked a switch and it never came out of it. It still works fine up to about 1/2 throttle, but its lost its zip on the top end. I probably wouldn't even question it if it had not worked perfect for 300 km. It makes me wonder if there is not something behind the drastically different reviews we are hearing on power. I was going to ask Toodeep if he seen any service bulletins on it. I will start a thread on it when I find out what it is.
 

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I am starting to wonder if this sensed mapping for sport or haul mode was a good thing. Not saying that's what it is, but just wonder if there is unexpected consequences to it. They did rush production. Think it was the fastest from design to finished product they have done. I look forward to getting my service manual so I can get a little more intimate with the setup.
 

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Maybe they are using us for R & D, I don't care as long as they use us good.
 

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Dick, going back to warm up times, what's the coldest you see on a regular basis over the years in the winter up there? We can expect a couple trips down around -30 Fahrenheit -34.44 Celsius. My Suzuki I plowed with the last 5 years always started up. I don't expect the Honda will be any different, but I am still curious.
 

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Sounds like we are about the same temp Moose couple of cold snaps a winter down around - 30 C but for the most part of the winter it hoovers around the freeze thaw range. I have heard that we have among the most freeze thaw cycles in the world. -15 to - 20C at night is common here in the winter. Beer freezes at -15 C but the Honda still started.
 

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You know I will Moose
I'd love to run Mobil 1...if the right viscosity is available. That means something - 30 ( not 40 ). I believe there is plenty of evidence that these things don't like thicker oil. I may end up with Amsoil just because they have a 0-30.

EDIT: Take that back. Looks like the Amsoil is 10-30.
 
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