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Looks like internal filter. Anything I need to know. Pics
Thanks for any info!!
dont throw the spacer shim away with your old filter it usually sticks to it
Like NV said, pay attention to the oil filter arrangement.

Use the proper type and viscosity listed in the owners manual. This drivetrain has shown a dislike of higher than stock viscosity oils, so unless you live in He!! or Phoenix ( same difference ), 30 weight is as thick as you probably want to go. Pay attention to the oil check procedure as well.

I'm told that if you jack the front end up, you get more oil drainage.
 

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Like NV said, pay attention to the oil filter arrangement.

Use the proper type and viscosity listed in the owners manual. This drivetrain has shown a dislike of higher than stock viscosity oils, so unless you live in He!! or Phoenix ( same difference ), 30 weight is as thick as you probably want to go. Pay attention to the oil check procedure as well.

I'm told that if you jack the front end up, you get more oil drainage.
i will disagree a little with you on the weight of the oil to use ....
the engineers at honda know a [email protected] load MORE about oils then you or i do .....run the type and grade that is listed in the owners manual (before anyone starts kicking up dust im not saying to use honda oil or anything but the same type and grade )
 

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+1 on jacking up the front a little higher to get more oil to drain. Be sure of course to set the parking brake and block the wheels.

It's laid out pretty well in the owners manual. Don't think they mention it in there, but a little tid bit from me is to clean the area where the filter cover is before removing it. you don't want dirt and crap falling in the new filter if you clank into something.
 

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i will disagree a little with you on the weight of the oil to use ....
the engineers at honda know a [email protected] load MORE about oils then you or i do .....run the type and grade that is listed in the owners manual (before anyone starts kicking up dust im not saying to use honda oil or anything but the same type and grade )
LOL!...well, you didn't disagree with me.
 

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I would change the oil for the first time at 100 miles like they suggest. Here are a couple of pictures of what appears to be metal filings in the filter after 100 miles. I showed it to the service manager and he assured me that this was normal at first. It probably is some sort of break in tin that they use on the bearings I figure, I can not see Honda leaving that many filings in a new engine build.

IMGP3468 (1024x768).jpg

IMGP3467 (1024x768).jpg
 

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Don't get hung up too much on brands of oil (like I used to do). Run the lowest cost JASO MA rated oil you can find. She'll Rotella 15w-40 is the best, lowest-cost I have found (less than $13 a gallon at Wal-Mart). Kawasaki has just started marketing their own brand which is $3.59 a quart which is a good deal also! (10w-30 weight).
 

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does it have conventional or synthetic from the factory? I would like to put synthetic in but not sure if it's supposed to be done until after it's broken in with conventional
 

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My thought is to run Honda oil in it. If something would fail Honda might want an oil sample. All manufactures are getting really picky with warranty. And really is it that much more to run Honda oil in it not really. It is not synthetic from factory. I don't about running synthetic with the clutch being a wet clutch. Might have to call your local dealership.
 
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