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(How To) 700 Oil and filter change guide.

335K views 61 replies 33 participants last post by  Dalton.j.crews  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Honda Pioneer 700

Oil change: a Honda Pioneer supplemental. I know there are a lot of people on or around the forum that are new to SxS's. Toodeep and myself thought this write up and a little add on color pictured help guide to go with using your manual to change your own oil would be beneficial

Note* this is only to help aid in the directions on how to do the oil change that are found in your owners manual. Any contradiction contained in these instructions, should be disregarded. ^^Tools needed. A socket wrench. 10mm,12mm, and 17mm sockets. A funnel, torque wrench, paper towels or clean lint free rags, and an oil pan.^^

Parts needed. A new oil filter. Honda part # 15412-KEA-003 or equivalent aftermarket of your choice. I use a KN-111. You will also need 3.1 quarts of Honda GN4 4 stroke 10w-30, or another oil that meets Honda specifications. I use a Mobile 1 Racing 4T 10W-40.

Warm you engine up for a few minutes. This will allow the old nasty oil to flow out of the motor more freely. If you already live someplace hotter than a super models butt, then you might not even need more than a minute or two.

Park it on a flat spot. Preferably some place you won't mind laying on the ground.

Set your parking brake and take the keys out. You don't want it accidentally driving away with no oil in it and you stuck under it.

Take your front seat out and toss it in the bed.

Fold back the rubber engine access flaps that are under the seat.

Your dipstick is on the drivers side. Unscrew it and remove the stick. Wipe it off with a clean paper towel or rag. Then I like to wipe it with my fingers before checking the oil, to make sure there isn't any lint on the stick. You want to be between the two lines.

Leave the dipstick loose and loosen the filler cap. I like to do this to vent the oil draining, just like the vent on a gas can.

If you can't fit under the machine, I suggest you block up the front tires. I used a couple scraps of 2x10. Blocking the front up will also aid in more oil draining out of the drain plug. Slide under to access the maintenance lid. Seen here.



Remove the 4 bolts that secure the lid. A ratchet with a 10mm socket works great. After the bolts are removed and safely set aside. Slide the lid to the side. *DO NOT attempt to take the lid out of the maintenance hole. * just slide it out of the way.



You now have access to the oil drain plug. It is 17mm. Loosen the drain plug and remove it with your oil pan in position to catch the oil.



While the oil drains.



Get up and grab a rag or paper towel to clean off the drain plug you brought with you. Inspect the rubber seal and washer on the plug. If they are good to go, take a little fresh oil and coat the plug.



When the oil has finished draining. Get back under the Pioneer. Insert the drain plug and turn it in by hand as far as you can. You can then tighten it to the specified torque of .....18 lbf-ft.......



Slide the maintenance lid back into its proper position and reinstall the bolts. Tighten them to the specified torque of...9 lbf-ft....

Go to the passenger side door with your oil pan in hand. Slide it directly under the Pioneer about where a passengers inboard leg would be. In that sides maintenance hatch you will find the internal oil filter cover. Loosen that 12mm bolt. note there is some residual oil inside the filter and cover. It might be a good time to check that oil pan placement.



After the oil filter bolt is loose, the entire filter unit should slide out.WARNING! When removing the old filter from the filter bolt, DO NOT discard the filter before making sure you have the flat washer that is adhered to it 99% of the time.



With the old filter removed,



it is time to slide the new filter on the assembly. Slide it back into the side of the motor.



Note. There is no front and back to the filter. Either way you slid it on is fine. hand tighten the filter bolt! then torque to .....13 lbf-ft........

Now that the drain plug and oil filter cover are both installed and tightened, it's time to add the oil. 3.1 quarts (3qts 3.2oz). ***WARNING! Add oil slowly!! I mean slower than you think is humanly possible. I am not joking, go slow, or you will be spilling it.

Screw in your dipstick and tighten your oil cap. Make sure all of your tools, rags, towels, and anything else is clear of the motor. Take your keys and start the Pioneer. Let it run for about 30-60 seconds to circulate your oil.

Shut the engine off and wait a few minutes (put away your tools and oil pan). Go back and check your oil. If it is low add some more until your are in the operating range between the lines.



Fold your rubber access panels back to their closed position and secure them.
Replace your seat and enjoy your Pioneer.
 
#62 ·
Oil change: a Honda Pioneer supplemental. I know there are a lot of people on or around the forum that are new to SxS's. Toodeep and myself thought this write up and a little add on color pictured help guide to go with using your manual to change your own oil would be beneficial

Note* this is only to help aid in the directions on how to do the oil change that are found in your owners manual. Any contradiction contained in these instructions, should be disregarded. ^^Tools needed. A socket wrench. 10mm,12mm, and 17mm sockets. A funnel, torque wrench, paper towels or clean lint free rags, and an oil pan.^^

Parts needed. A new oil filter. Honda part # 15412-KEA-003 or equivalent aftermarket of your choice. I use a KN-111. You will also need 3.1 quarts of Honda GN4 4 stroke 10w-30, or another oil that meets Honda specifications. I use a Mobile 1 Racing 4T 10W-40.

Warm you engine up for a few minutes. This will allow the old nasty oil to flow out of the motor more freely. If you already live someplace hotter than a super models butt, then you might not even need more than a minute or two.

Park it on a flat spot. Preferably some place you won't mind laying on the ground.

Set your parking brake and take the keys out. You don't want it accidentally driving away with no oil in it and you stuck under it.

Take your front seat out and toss it in the bed.

Fold back the rubber engine access flaps that are under the seat.

Your dipstick is on the drivers side. Unscrew it and remove the stick. Wipe it off with a clean paper towel or rag. Then I like to wipe it with my fingers before checking the oil, to make sure there isn't any lint on the stick. You want to be between the two lines.

Leave the dipstick loose and loosen the filler cap. I like to do this to vent the oil draining, just like the vent on a gas can.

If you can't fit under the machine, I suggest you block up the front tires. I used a couple scraps of 2x10. Blocking the front up will also aid in more oil draining out of the drain plug. Slide under to access the maintenance lid. Seen here.



Remove the 4 bolts that secure the lid. A ratchet with a 10mm socket works great. After the bolts are removed and safely set aside. Slide the lid to the side. *DO NOT attempt to take the lid out of the maintenance hole. * just slide it out of the way.



You now have access to the oil drain plug. It is 17mm. Loosen the drain plug and remove it with your oil pan in position to catch the oil.



While the oil drains.



Get up and grab a rag or paper towel to clean off the drain plug you brought with you. Inspect the rubber seal and washer on the plug. If they are good to go, take a little fresh oil and coat the plug.



When the oil has finished draining. Get back under the Pioneer. Insert the drain plug and turn it in by hand as far as you can. You can then tighten it to the specified torque of .....18 lbf-ft.......



Slide the maintenance lid back into its proper position and reinstall the bolts. Tighten them to the specified torque of...9 lbf-ft....

Go to the passenger side door with your oil pan in hand. Slide it directly under the Pioneer about where a passengers inboard leg would be. In that sides maintenance hatch you will find the internal oil filter cover. Loosen that 12mm bolt. note there is some residual oil inside the filter and cover. It might be a good time to check that oil pan placement.



After the oil filter bolt is loose, the entire filter unit should slide out.WARNING! When removing the old filter from the filter bolt, DO NOT discard the filter before making sure you have the flat washer that is adhered to it 99% of the time.



With the old filter removed,



it is time to slide the new filter on the assembly. Slide it back into the side of the motor.



Note. There is no front and back to the filter. Either way you slid it on is fine. hand tighten the filter bolt! then torque to .....13 lbf-ft........

Now that the drain plug and oil filter cover are both installed and tightened, it's time to add the oil. 3.1 quarts (3qts 3.2oz). ***WARNING! Add oil slowly!! I mean slower than you think is humanly possible. I am not joking, go slow, or you will be spilling it.

Screw in your dipstick and tighten your oil cap. Make sure all of your tools, rags, towels, and anything else is clear of the motor. Take your keys and start the Pioneer. Let it run for about 30-60 seconds to circulate your oil.

Shut the engine off and wait a few minutes (put away your tools and oil pan). Go back and check your oil. If it is low add some more until your are in the operating range between the lines.



Fold your rubber access panels back to their closed position and secure them.
Replace your seat and enjoy your Pioneer.
This might be a stupid question, I am just curious on my 500 does the oil filter go on certain way , I have had people tell me different things now it making me wonder ?
 
#61 ·
There is only 1 drain plug for the motor/transmission on the 700.

The 1000 has 2 drain plugs for the motor/transmission and 1 for the sub transmission.

He probably confused the 2 machines, I'm guessing. If you Jack the front end up you will get a more complete drain. They can hold close to 4 quarts when doing that. I always overfill the 700 as well. I fill it to the top of the flat part on the dipstick. It helps the transmission with cold starts and climbing hills.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
#60 · (Edited)
sensor plug right next to oil drain plug

I have a '18 pioneer 700, and am in the middle of the 100 mile oil change.
I just removed what I thought was the drain plug, but it has an electrical connection on the end of it, some kind of sensor I guess.
Oil came out like it was the proper drain plug, but Moose's description and photo does not have wires coming out of it.

OK, I found it, right next to the sensor plug. Not enough oil came out of the sensor plug (with a magnetic pickup on the end of it! Nice touch!)
So I found the proper oil drain plug and the 3 plus qts came out of it.

My salesman told me that there were 3 drains on this '18 700. Could the sensor plug be one of those? I thought he was talking about the front and rear diffs. If he wasn't then I have one more drain to find, that no one is talking about, and that is not in the youtube clips I saw on 700 oil changes.
If you can understand this post, maybe it's too fragmented.

Lost in the Wisconsin woods.
Dean0:)
 
#42 ·
it is very slow to fill .. just watch where the freekin spring goes on the oil filter cap is when you take it off I lost mine for a bit .. had to take some of the Belly skid plate off to find it . it wont Happen again.. and whats up with ,,, if you need to replace the O rings on the oil filter .. why the heck dont they come with the filter ... the Honda shop (told me it fits several diff motors) .. I,m thinking I told them what its for ..... put it back on with the old ones ..
 
#39 ·
New to the forum, I read your write up on the oil and filter change. The flat washer on the filter bolt is it a metal crush washer or a rubber seal washer? Any help would be appreciated. Just did the service and found a leak and read your post. Thinking that I missed it or it was missing from the previous owner.