While climbing a hill, my pioneer just died with no check engine lights. It started just fine but I put it in gear and it died before I even gave it gas. So I back done the hill and started it then tried to climb the hill, made it about 50 ft and it died again. Backed back down then hill and it had the same issues dieing when I put it in gear. I was able to drive it in reverse about 5 miles back to camp. Next day I swapped all the relays and had the same issue after about 5 minutes of runtime. All fluids and Temps are good. Later when I got home I did an oil change, new air filter, new plugs, new shift control motor. Then I disconnected the harness, cleaned, dielectric greased and reinstalled. But still having the same issue. I wiggle the hell out of the injector wire while driving and it doesn't kill it. It dies in high, low, AT, MT any gear, uphill, downhill or flat and smooth, while accelerating, maintaining speed or slowing down. I took the fuel pump out and the tank and filter looked fine, no debris or water, the vent line is fine and i had no problem breathing through it. I also removed and cleaned all three engine grounds. When it dies the engine cuts out with no check engine lights most of the time. Today the engine died and the whole dash was cutting in and out after the 4th time it died on a 10 mile test drive. When it dies and i put it in neutral or park, the shift solenoid clicks a few times until the transmission is in the correct gear and I put a new shift solenoid in and had no changes. Does anyone have any ideas? I guess my next step is either fuel pump or main harness but I'd rather not waste money if it's something else.
JakeB88
Howdy and welcome from Northern Iowa
.
After reading what you wrote, and then reading it again, and then again.
Do you have a heater? If so, where is it mounted?
You said temp is good, ok, but at what temp is it shutting down?
Only after reaching normal temp, or does it shut down when cold?
.
Possible
- bad/weak battery (load test it)
First step with any troubleshooting is to eliminate possible problems and then move to the next.
Even with a new battery, if there are problems, it needs a load test.
Most people do not have a battery load tester, but you can use a multimeter.
Battery. hook up your multimeter.
Key off, what is the voltage?
Key on, what is the voltage?
Turn on EVERYTHING , high beam head light and any other accessory, step on the brake. now what is the voltage?
Now with all that still on, crank it over while watching the voltage.
If you drop below 10 volts, weak/bad battery.
.
In some cases, our Hondas will crank with a bad battery, but the voltage is not enough to operate some of the systems, so it will not start.
.
In some cases, our Hondas will crank AND START, with a bad battery, but the voltage is not enough to operate some of the systems, and then other problems show up.
I have never worked on anything as voltage sensitive as our Hondas, and I have been a mech my whole life.
.- next thought would be neutral safety switch or wires going to it.
.- third would be mouse chewed or rubbing wires......somewhere.
.- have read about some NEW bad shift control motors. Did you use OEM or....?
.
read this thread
Engine stops when gear engaged
and the threads linked in that thread
Get the Service Manual download from that thread, if you don't have it already.
.
.
edit to add
I sure am glad you didn't stay on long, because I have came back and edited my comments about 5 times or more. haha
I keep thinking of other possible things, or questions, and add it in.
.
Have a good day
.
After reading what you wrote, and then reading it again, and then again.
Do you have a heater? If so, where is it mounted?
You said temp is good, ok, but at what temp is it shutting down?
Only after reaching normal temp, or does it shut down when cold?
.
Possible
- bad/weak battery (load test it)
First step with any troubleshooting is to eliminate possible problems and then move to the next.
Even with a new battery, if there are problems, it needs a load test.
Most people do not have a battery load tester, but you can use a multimeter.
Battery. hook up your multimeter.
Key off, what is the voltage?
Key on, what is the voltage?
Turn on EVERYTHING , high beam head light and any other accessory, step on the brake. now what is the voltage?
Now with all that still on, crank it over while watching the voltage.
If you drop below 10 volts, weak/bad battery.
.
In some cases, our Hondas will crank with a bad battery, but the voltage is not enough to operate some of the systems, so it will not start.
.
In some cases, our Hondas will crank AND START, with a bad battery, but the voltage is not enough to operate some of the systems, and then other problems show up.
I have never worked on anything as voltage sensitive as our Hondas, and I have been a mech my whole life.
.- next thought would be neutral safety switch or wires going to it.
.- third would be mouse chewed or rubbing wires......somewhere.
.- have read about some NEW bad shift control motors. Did you use OEM or....?
.
read this thread
Engine stops when gear engaged
and the threads linked in that thread
Get the Service Manual download from that thread, if you don't have it already.
.
.
edit to add
I sure am glad you didn't stay on long, because I have came back and edited my comments about 5 times or more. haha
I keep thinking of other possible things, or questions, and add it in.
.
Have a good day
Mark, thanks for reaching out so quickly.
Heater question:
No heater on the pioneer. No storage box under the seat. No seat heat insulation either.
Shutdown Temp:
Sometimes it shuts down when it is 1 of 4 bars but most of the time it is at 2/4 bars. It's just so intermittent it is hard to pinpoint. With a cold engine, I have made it 2-20 miles before it dies. Sometimes I start it up and can go another 5 miles or so; sometimes it is 50 ft.
Battery:
I read that that was an issue in another thread so I changed to a new battery as well, but still no luck. Main battery while off is 12.68, and the accessory battery is 12.61. When running the voltage is 14.24. The cranking test was 3518ms at 10.68v which is in the normal range. The load test on the battery passed a full 100% load as well. I removed the accessories and battery from the system but it didn't fix the issue either.
Starting:
It cranks right over after dying and starts 95% of the time. the 2-3 times it didn't want to start I waited like 2 minutes and it fired up just fine.
Troubleshooting I have done so far:
I replaced the injector pigtails about 2 years ago so I wiggled them while idling and driving down the road and it didn't affect anything. I went ahead and cut out my solder joints and resoldered but still had the random stalling. Spark was good and strong, the plugs looked good and it had no issues while wiggling the wires under load, but I went ahead and put new OEM spark plugs in and that changed nothing. The air filter was a little dirty but not bad but I changed it anyway with an OEM, and still no changes. Then some forums mentioned the battery so I replaced it with a bigger/stronger than stock and it didn't fix the issue. Another forum mentioned the shift solenoid so I replaced it with an OEM one with no luck. I read about the three engine grounds coming loose or being corroded, mine looked good but I went ahead and removed them, sanded them, and tightened them back down still no changes. Then I jacked the machine in the air and had my wife get in the seat and start flooring and stopping it while I wiggled the harness underneath the machine but it never died. Then I disconnected every sensor on the harness, cleaned, applied dielectric grease, and reconnected. One of the oil pressure sensors on the transmission was oily, after cleaning it and test-driving it for 20 miles there were no issues so I buttoned everything up. And I thought it was good. Over the next 2 weeks, I put 30 miles on it with leisure driving without any issues. Then we went to the mountains for some trail riding. About 20 miles in it died, started right back up, and lasted 5 minutes. Then it died back to back another 4 times. Then was fine for a couple of miles then died 3 more times back to back then made it all the way back to the trailer which was about 15 more miles without any issue. When I got home I pulled the fuel pump and the filter was super clean, fuel in the tank is only 2 weeks old, and the tank was clean, with no water/no dirt.
Next steps/my thoughts:
Im going to remove the skid plate and reinspect the oil pressure switch that was oily and replace it if it is oily again. if that doesn't fix it I may test the fuel pump while driving, maybe it's not producing constant output pressure. Then if that isn't the issue I might replace the whole harness. I just hate wasting my time and money so fingers crossed that I don't have to go that far.
Heater question:
No heater on the pioneer. No storage box under the seat. No seat heat insulation either.
Shutdown Temp:
Sometimes it shuts down when it is 1 of 4 bars but most of the time it is at 2/4 bars. It's just so intermittent it is hard to pinpoint. With a cold engine, I have made it 2-20 miles before it dies. Sometimes I start it up and can go another 5 miles or so; sometimes it is 50 ft.
Battery:
I read that that was an issue in another thread so I changed to a new battery as well, but still no luck. Main battery while off is 12.68, and the accessory battery is 12.61. When running the voltage is 14.24. The cranking test was 3518ms at 10.68v which is in the normal range. The load test on the battery passed a full 100% load as well. I removed the accessories and battery from the system but it didn't fix the issue either.
Starting:
It cranks right over after dying and starts 95% of the time. the 2-3 times it didn't want to start I waited like 2 minutes and it fired up just fine.
Troubleshooting I have done so far:
I replaced the injector pigtails about 2 years ago so I wiggled them while idling and driving down the road and it didn't affect anything. I went ahead and cut out my solder joints and resoldered but still had the random stalling. Spark was good and strong, the plugs looked good and it had no issues while wiggling the wires under load, but I went ahead and put new OEM spark plugs in and that changed nothing. The air filter was a little dirty but not bad but I changed it anyway with an OEM, and still no changes. Then some forums mentioned the battery so I replaced it with a bigger/stronger than stock and it didn't fix the issue. Another forum mentioned the shift solenoid so I replaced it with an OEM one with no luck. I read about the three engine grounds coming loose or being corroded, mine looked good but I went ahead and removed them, sanded them, and tightened them back down still no changes. Then I jacked the machine in the air and had my wife get in the seat and start flooring and stopping it while I wiggled the harness underneath the machine but it never died. Then I disconnected every sensor on the harness, cleaned, applied dielectric grease, and reconnected. One of the oil pressure sensors on the transmission was oily, after cleaning it and test-driving it for 20 miles there were no issues so I buttoned everything up. And I thought it was good. Over the next 2 weeks, I put 30 miles on it with leisure driving without any issues. Then we went to the mountains for some trail riding. About 20 miles in it died, started right back up, and lasted 5 minutes. Then it died back to back another 4 times. Then was fine for a couple of miles then died 3 more times back to back then made it all the way back to the trailer which was about 15 more miles without any issue. When I got home I pulled the fuel pump and the filter was super clean, fuel in the tank is only 2 weeks old, and the tank was clean, with no water/no dirt.
Next steps/my thoughts:
Im going to remove the skid plate and reinspect the oil pressure switch that was oily and replace it if it is oily again. if that doesn't fix it I may test the fuel pump while driving, maybe it's not producing constant output pressure. Then if that isn't the issue I might replace the whole harness. I just hate wasting my time and money so fingers crossed that I don't have to go that far.
I tested the fuel pump it's not it either.
Book says fuel pressure is 48-53psi and it had 48-50 on my gauge.
Book says fuel flow needs to be 12oz in 10 seconds and I had about 16oz with 5, 2-second key turns.
I also looked at that dirty pressure sensor I had and it was still clean. It is the #1 clutch EOP sensor. I started it without it plugged in to see how it acted and it had a DTC and flashed 2nd gear code saying #1 EOP circuit failure. Since that has never organically happened I don't think it is the issue.
Starting to think it may be the main harness but why does it happen after it's running for awhile and why doesn't it die when I'm shaking the harness? Maybe try another shift control motor? I really don't want to keep throwing money at it without actually diagnosing it.
Book says fuel pressure is 48-53psi and it had 48-50 on my gauge.
Book says fuel flow needs to be 12oz in 10 seconds and I had about 16oz with 5, 2-second key turns.
I also looked at that dirty pressure sensor I had and it was still clean. It is the #1 clutch EOP sensor. I started it without it plugged in to see how it acted and it had a DTC and flashed 2nd gear code saying #1 EOP circuit failure. Since that has never organically happened I don't think it is the issue.
Starting to think it may be the main harness but why does it happen after it's running for awhile and why doesn't it die when I'm shaking the harness? Maybe try another shift control motor? I really don't want to keep throwing money at it without actually diagnosing it.
I know you said there are no flashing lights.
Have you tried to see if there are any stored faults?
.
If you don't have it, get the digital from the thread I linked to above.
In the Service Manual, page 4-8 shows how to pull codes
.
This is from page 4-8
.
When retrieving the stored OTC, refer to the following procedure.
Remove the OLC from the dummy connector (page 4-8).
Short the OLC [1] using the special tool.
TOOL:
SCS service connector [2] 070PZ-2Y30100
CONNECTION: Brown/red - Green
Turn the ignition switch ON (I), read and note the MIL blinks, and refer to the
troubleshooting index:
• If the PCM has any OTC in its memory, the MIL will start blinking.
.
The special tool they talk about is just a jumper wire.
jump: Brown/red - Green
Then turn on ignition switch
count the flashes
.
Hoping something shows up to point us to the problem.
.
.
Found this from @Rs1000, something else to check
"I had a dirty frame ground under driver seat and behind the computer. There are multiple grounds at this location. Grounds are on frame behind the right calf on your leg if you were sitting in driver's seat. Kind of hard to find. The problem does mimic water in the system except when there is water in the system 9 times out of 10 it won't run at all."
.
Have a good day
Have you tried to see if there are any stored faults?
.
If you don't have it, get the digital from the thread I linked to above.
In the Service Manual, page 4-8 shows how to pull codes
.
This is from page 4-8
.
When retrieving the stored OTC, refer to the following procedure.
Remove the OLC from the dummy connector (page 4-8).
Short the OLC [1] using the special tool.
TOOL:
SCS service connector [2] 070PZ-2Y30100
CONNECTION: Brown/red - Green
Turn the ignition switch ON (I), read and note the MIL blinks, and refer to the
troubleshooting index:
- PGM Fl system: page 4-9
- OCT system: page 11-11
• If the PCM has any OTC in its memory, the MIL will start blinking.
.
The special tool they talk about is just a jumper wire.
jump: Brown/red - Green
Then turn on ignition switch
count the flashes
.
Hoping something shows up to point us to the problem.
.
.
Found this from @Rs1000, something else to check
"I had a dirty frame ground under driver seat and behind the computer. There are multiple grounds at this location. Grounds are on frame behind the right calf on your leg if you were sitting in driver's seat. Kind of hard to find. The problem does mimic water in the system except when there is water in the system 9 times out of 10 it won't run at all."
.
Have a good day
Mark,
I pulled the codes and it had 2 stored.
First was the EOP sensor, open circuit which I had pulled the plug to see how it operated without out it since that was the dirty plug I talked about in an earlier post.
Second was a throttle sensor. Book said to inspect play at the pedal then swap the sensor on the throttle body for a known good one but those symptoms weren't my issues. I went ahead a measured the pedal and it was within limits.
I also inspected the ignition switch since I read in another forum that could be the culprit. But it seamed fine and never died while rolling and bending the wires or tapping on it while driveing and giggling the keys.
I erased the codes and went for a 48.2 mile ride using high, low, turf, AT, MT, sport, turf, 2wd, 4x4, Diff lock. Had plenty of side hilling, inclines, declines, slow speeds over rocks and high speeds on an open road and no issues.
Next day we went for an additional 64.7 mile trip at 96°F and still no issues.
When I got home I checked the codes and nothing new appeared.
Hopefully it's fixed and either just needed the stored codes cleared or ignition switch cleaned and reseated. I appreciate your help!
I pulled the codes and it had 2 stored.
First was the EOP sensor, open circuit which I had pulled the plug to see how it operated without out it since that was the dirty plug I talked about in an earlier post.
Second was a throttle sensor. Book said to inspect play at the pedal then swap the sensor on the throttle body for a known good one but those symptoms weren't my issues. I went ahead a measured the pedal and it was within limits.
I also inspected the ignition switch since I read in another forum that could be the culprit. But it seamed fine and never died while rolling and bending the wires or tapping on it while driveing and giggling the keys.
I erased the codes and went for a 48.2 mile ride using high, low, turf, AT, MT, sport, turf, 2wd, 4x4, Diff lock. Had plenty of side hilling, inclines, declines, slow speeds over rocks and high speeds on an open road and no issues.
Next day we went for an additional 64.7 mile trip at 96°F and still no issues.
When I got home I checked the codes and nothing new appeared.
Hopefully it's fixed and either just needed the stored codes cleared or ignition switch cleaned and reseated. I appreciate your help!
You are welcome,
Glad the problem is gone, and hope it doesn't come back.
.
.
But, thumbs, because we didn't really find/fix the problem.
Now, IF the problem comes back, we won't know what to fix.
.
Ride it like you stole it for awhile, haha!! and Enjoy the Ride!!!!
.
Have a good day
Glad the problem is gone,
and hope it doesn't come back..
.
But, thumbs
, because we didn't really find/fix the problem.Now, IF the problem comes back, we won't know what to fix.
.
Ride it like you stole it for awhile, haha!! and Enjoy the Ride!!!!
.
Have a good day
I had that issue on my 2016 Pioneer 1000-5. 1st trip out for the year - when under a load(snow drifts in 4 wheel drive or heavy uphill) it started with sputtering then dying then progressed to just done. Like you had turned off the key. Ran fine on level not under a load. After watching numerous Youtube's on the problem it appeared to possibly be one of the following - so I replaced the injector plugs, spark plugs, fuel pump and cleaned the idle actuator valve(I believe it's called?). Seems to have solved the problem but couldn't tell you which of the 4 it was. Good luck
I have been having a problem with my 2021 Honda Pioneer. I do have a dual battery setup and in the beginning I did have a problem with the starting battery which I replaced. The bike will start up and run good for a few hours but then has a problem starting. After a few hours it will start as if nothing was wrong. I am not a mechanic but next time I open the air box plan on going back to OEM filter instead on a K and N. I have replaced the spark plugs. After reading this forum I plan on checking the fuel pump. Any more suggestions would be appreciated.
Howdy and welcome to @desmondgaar from Northern Iowa
.
You have a Honda, you can do all the work required, AND not be a mechanic.
That's the nice thing about our Hondas, they are designed for the operator to do almost all of the work.
.
When after warm, and it will not start.
Do you have any flashing lights?
If not, read post #5 above, and pull the stored codes.
Tell us the codes, if there are any.
.
and then read this thread
www.hondapioneerforum.com
.
Have a good day
.
You have a Honda, you can do all the work required, AND not be a mechanic.
That's the nice thing about our Hondas, they are designed for the operator to do almost all of the work.
.
When after warm, and it will not start.
Do you have any flashing lights?
If not, read post #5 above, and pull the stored codes.
Tell us the codes, if there are any.
.
and then read this thread
2016 Pioneer 1000-5 Running Issues
I am having similar issues as a few others who have posted. This past week I took out the 2016 Pioneer 1000-5 and it was bucking as struggling to stay running when I put it into gear. It acted like it was set too low of an idle and/or was being starved of fuel. After about 5 or 6 re-starts...
www.hondapioneerforum.com
Have a good day
7 long blinks and 4 short ones is code 74.
.
In the Service Manual DTC codes:
Page 11-13 shows code 74
.
Have a good day
.
In the Service Manual DTC codes:
- The Check Engine light(CEL) blinks if there is a Fuel/Ignition issue, (DTC)Page 4-9.
- The gear indicator light blinks if there is a transmission/driveline issue, (DTC)Page 11-11.
- The Electric Power Steering(EPS) light blinks if there is a Power Steering issue, (DTC)Page 24-11.
- The l-4WD (Intelligent 4 Wheel Drive) light stays on when the l-4WD control unit detects a problem.
- - - For this system, you must pull the codes, Page 25-5 and then refer to, (DTC)Page 25-8.
Page 11-13 shows code 74
.
Have a good day
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
